Easy climbing up the slab situates you below a roof boulder problem. Clip the bolt above the roof and then move through the crux to jugs on the head wall.
By Andy Chasteen From: Oklahoma City, OK Jan 30, 2008
It's between Sonny Jim and 1st Normal Form.
By Arthur Nisnevich From: Boulder, CO Mar 16, 2008 rating: 5.12a
Tricky and committing four-move boulder problem at the roof. The climbing until and past the roof is 5.10.
By Kevin W. Corcoran From: Eugene, Oregon Oct 19, 2008 rating: 5.11c
In my recollection, being tall was a significant advantage for the crux on this route. I remember the beginning of the route being very easy (5.8?). The crux was a little tricky to figure out but not particularly difficult for me. The end of the route is about 15 feet of steep jug-bashing.
I'd give it 12a. sure the climbing before the roof is easy, but pulling the crux is definitely 12a in my estimation. there is now a fixed draw (chain) hanging at the crux, so it's easier to clean, and you can get on it and not leave a biner if you can't pull the crux.
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