Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Prow & Reality Wall
Select Route:
Air to the Throne T 
Arkansas Reality T 
Backrub T 
Bryes Corner T 
Chickens in Space T 
Holy Smokes! T,S 
SAMCRO S 
Slam Dance T 
Sliders T 
Smooth Operator T 
SuperNatural T 

Arkansas Reality 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,147
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Apr 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mike on Arkansas Reality.

Description 

Climb low angled dihedral and fingercrack to the base of the 12 foot roof crack. Pull through on jams and jugs over the lip and angle right on the chickenheads above to the anchors. You can continue to the top of the cliff in another easy pitch or just rap.

Location 

In the middle of the Reality Wall, halfway between the cave on the left and the arete on the right.

Protection 

Gear to 3.5". 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Arkansas Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Erik near the lip of Arkansas Reality.
Erik near the lip of Arkansas Reality.
oh inverted world
oh inverted world
Jamming out the 12' roof... This is a must do at S...
Jamming out the 12' roof... This is a must do at S...
Erik in the business of Arkansas Reality.
Erik in the business of Arkansas Reality.
Erik just below the roof of Arkansas Reality.
Erik just below the roof of Arkansas Reality.
Great Climb!
Great Climb!

Comments on Arkansas Reality Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Prewitt
May 20, 2008

As fun of a roof-crack that you'll find in any part of the country. Don't let the grade fool you, it's well worth the effort. Watching someone TR this and whip outta the base of the roof is hilarious!
By Agjohns
From: Yantia China
Nov 4, 2013

Getting to the roof is a harer than it looks, the gear is small and challenging, two bd#2's protect the roof perfectly though you can also get a #3 or #3.5 in there if you want. Great climb!
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 24, 2014

A 1/2 inch cam works in the finger crack. There currently is a fixed wire at the end of the finger crack with a red biner ( 4/14). In the roof I used a bd#2, #3, #2 and then a #1 where the crack turns vertical.
By C. Archibald
May 12, 2014

This route humbled me. All my thrashing and hanging and french freeing wiggled a #2 deep into the top of the roof crack. Even with two nut tools taped together we couldn't recover the piece. My partner worked on it like a champ. I've been trad climbing for about 3 years and never lost a cam. Arkansas Reality took my gold C4. If you can get it out, enjoy. (5/11/2014)

I also thought that getting into the roof was surprising difficult. The lower finger crack is covered in lichen and sand. All the feet are very sloppy. Luckily I had great gear, a .4 and .5, because I fell twice getting into the roof.

I can climb 5.10 hands at the creek. That doesn't mean I was ready for this route!
By LarryL
Oct 7, 2014

Hey C, your gold C4 is still there. I used it for aid myself last weekend! My on-site attempt at this line was pathetic. Although I was not fresh, I could not even work my feet up into the crack and move. Think my buddy and I are going to work on a crack-machine to simulate this route. Nuggets: It is much harder than it looks, for sure! It is smooth with no interior edges I could find. The first wide section is too wide for hand jams unless you go deep. I plan to try and intermediate through this section and get my feet up in the wide spot next time. That seems to position you well for the good hands toward the lip.