Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonderin' Where the Lions Are)
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Chuck Graves gathers his thoughts at the first bol...
This is the furthest left route on the crag. Hike up left just past a large knocked down and burnt tree. This is a steep friction/slab climb and in my opinion it's sandbagged. I would give it at least a .10a/b. (note: I've seen another name given to this route in other guides, not sure what it is though). [Apparently, also known as "Wonderin' Where the Lions Are."]
There's a diagonal crack and slab going out to the right, follow this about 15 feet to your first bolt on the face. First crux is getting the second bolt on a thin face. After the second bolt, you have good holds through some choppy rock (place extra pro here). At the third bolt, move through another crux on the thin face again and finish at the chained anchor (75 feet).
This route is also a good toprope setup if someone has lead it first. You only need a single 50m rope.
There are 3 bolts for quickdraws, but a small runout between the second and third bolt requires some pro. I found the perfect spot for the blue Alien, otherwise bring stoppers. A two-bolt chained anchor.
|Photos of Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonderin' Where the Lions Are) Slideshow
The first bolt is visible directly above my hips. ...
Thin but positive foot and handholds get you past ...
Looking for gear above some gear above the first t...
Paul casually hiking past the second bolt.
|Comments on Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonderin' Where the Lions Are)
|By jeff mcnair|
Apr 10, 2002
Nice little route here. Mostly friction climbing. Very much worth doing. Both times I've climbed it, I got caught in late afternoon storms, though. I don't recommend this.
|By Dustin Bauer|
Sep 3, 2003
The route has a REALLY cool two moves in the middle... if you like crimpers rest of route is more like 5.7
|By allen simons|
Nov 6, 2004
I have climbed this route many times and 10a seems more realistic all be it a two move wonder.
|By Luke Clarke|
Apr 30, 2006
Strongly recommend a piece or two -- cam or nuts -- in the size range of yellow-blue or green Alien for the horizontal band between second and third bolts. Although climbing is easy, it's a long way from 2nd to 3rd bolt on a short route so if you have nothing in between and blew the 3rd clip or a move in that vicinity, the consequences would be serious.
|By Bernard Gillett|
May 7, 2006
Answering question posted under the photo: When I was writing my 1993 guide to Estes Park, I contacted Craig Luebben (FA of this route), and he sent me a topo of Combat Rock (which I still have in my files). At that time, he had named the route Wonderin' Where the Lions Are. I see that I wrote in the '93 guide "Also known as Arkansas Patriot," so I must have been aware of that name before going to print -- perhaps I got it from Peter Hubbel's Front Range Crags? I'm not seeing a copyright date in my copy of his guide, so I'm not sure when it came out, but sounds about right. I'm pretty sure I didn't get it from Craig. In any case, Wonderin' Where the Lions Are was the original name for the route per Craig's topo.
By the time my 2001 guide came out, I was still acting under the assumption that everyone else who was using the name Arkansas Patriot was incorrect, so I used Wonderin' Where the Lions Are. Since then, I believe I have talked to Craig (I have a faint recollection of a conversation with him in the past 5 years), and he told me he had re-named it many years ago (or maybe I'm dreaming). My desk copy of the 2001 guide has "Wonderin'" scratched out, to be replaced with Arkansas Patriot, so if I ever do a third edition to the EP guide, I'll use Arkansas Patriot.
If Craig reads this, he can verify (or set straight) my recollection of the names (shoot, might as well kill two birds with one stone and tell me what the correct name for "Unfinished Business" is, its rating, etc. -- that was a route that I became aware of very close to press time, and just threw it in there without finishing the research on it).
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Feb 19, 2007
Did I miss something on this route?? Somehow, I found it easiest to clip Bolt #1, then veer up and left. You can actually place a #1 Camalot here if you wanted, and skip Bolt #2, but I ended up clipping Bolt #2 after downclimbing and traversing back right. However, if you go straight up to Bolt #2, it's significantly harder. The confusion here took something away from the route for me *shrug*. Either way, definitely bring small gear for the long runout between Bolt #2 and Bolt #3.
|By Scott Matz|
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 1, 2008
Hey Hey, mcmilly here. Don't get this route mixed up with the one just right, stay left and you'll enjoy a 5.10 - . technical face, don't forget to place pro in horizontal crack between 2+3 the only place for gear, or like Clarke said consequences are serous.
|By Andy Novak|
Mar 9, 2010
ON March 6, 2010, we saw very fresh, very large Mt. Lion tracks in the snow below this climb. Ironic, given the original name. Be careful with dogs or on the hike back to the car. After the fun, technical face sequence, relax at the chains and survey the valley for Puma Concolor.
|By John Marsella|
From: Berthoud, CO
Jan 26, 2013
Supplementary gear options also include C3 (red or yellow) or HB offset #5.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2013
There is another bolted route left of the route described in this entry and shown in the photos Ivan posted. It has 4 bolts and 1 fixed pin to 2-bolt anchor, with a 5.9 move between bolts 1 & 2.