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what's wrong with this picture?

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By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 14, 2008
teaching rappelling

That's not the answer... and not how you spell stupid. Keep looking,

JF

By Ben Kiessel
Feb 14, 2008
2003

Is it because...

The crack gets slightly larger above the placement, so if it walked it would be bad?

There is a pod below the placement so if the cam slipped a foot(think vertical limit) then the placement would fail?

There is a #1 camalot clipped to the biner also?

The cam looks brand new and probably has not been tested, so the head could pop off if he fell on it? Oh wait it's not an alien.

The biner has tape on it which could weaken the metal?

He placed the cam in sandstone which is weak and could break?

Because he doesn't have glasses on he could get something in his eye, making the climb harder?

Is it because he has chalk on his hands and that breaks down the nylon in the sling?

Sorry if there are misspelled words in this post. I am stoopid.

By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 14, 2008
teaching rappelling

I think there's another o in there,

JF

By Anonymous Spraying Account
Feb 14, 2008

Right, it's a slow day.

  • Video is categorized in "Howto & Style"
  • That placement is begging for a hex?
  • They're on the ground.
  • The first comment is from "drfelatio", which is sick and wrong. For the poor spelling if nothing else.
  • The cam was made in China.
  • Is that rock art in the upper-left / upper-right? Nah, probably just lichen or something.
  • Who says "momma" anyway?

Right, I give up. YouTube is only good for cooking videos anyway.

By Linda White
From gilbert
Feb 14, 2008
Young Monkeys

your not going to tell.....that's 'cause it is null and void.
Maybe you just want us to all give you a little attention.
I hope we made your week


Happy VD to all

heehee

By Greg German
From Broomfield, CO
Feb 14, 2008
gg

There is electrical tape on the basket of the 'biner in addition to the spine...

By S. Gileadi
From Salt Lake City
Feb 14, 2008

Bwa ha ha ha ha I think I know!

This video's for his mom? Oh man.

By Andrew Ryder
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 14, 2008
At the base of Chinese Gangfight after getting my ass kicked for the xxxxteenth time. Those Kelly slopers can be humbling.

S. Gileadi wrote:
Bwa ha ha ha ha I think I know! This video's for his mom? Oh man.


That's the only thing I could think of...

By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Feb 15, 2008
Almost there......

I can't believe ya'll took 3 pages of guessing, this is soooo simple...

He's a Trad Climber, and yet speaks in a comprehensible manner. Just like a NORMAL human being.

Hello?!?

By Scott M. Mossman
Feb 15, 2008
Messing around in RMNP in winter, climbing 5.7 in rubber snow boots and ski gloves.

I am quite sure that when we do hear the answer (if we do) there will be a collective GROAN!!! from all of the posters. The answer can't be nearly as good as the build-up, which may be the point....is the answer so trivial that JF is now afraid to tell us?

The only thing I saw was the gate on the 'biner facing towards the rock.

By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 15, 2008
teaching rappelling

OK, I've been busy working and really haven't had time to respond, nevertheless, it's raining, I'm bored and a number of things are running through my skivie little brain...the comments about cutting slings off camalots... comments of me wanting to bring attention to myself... who invented decaffeinated espresso and why?

Linda, you couldn't be further from the truth. The last thing I intended to do is to bring attention to myself, which is the reason I haven't replied.

As far as the sling post goes, those of you who have been climbing for more than fifteen years need no explanation, for those of you who have not...well, some of my camalot's are first generation, and back in my day...cams didn't come with slings sewn on, and we liked it!
Moreover, if most camalot's have a breaking strength of around 16kn (that's just a number that pops in to my head), cutting the sling off is somewhat trivial.

Scott, you're right, the answer is somewhat trivial. I posted this thing about a week ago and never thought this would go to three pages. I really thought people would make their own conclusions and not care about mine.
That said, the cam might look OK from the ground, however, as I tried to convey in my next post, that thing takes on a different picture as the climber moves above it.

Here's the deal... if one is going to put a cam demo on youtube for the world to view, one might think about a better placement and explanation on how the cam actually works. A cam works because downward forces are multiplied by as much as four times outward, thus, the cam needs to be placed midrange or better. The cam in the video is under cammed, placed in sandstone and directly below and above a pod or flare. As soon as the poor sap moves above the placement...well, that things going for a walk. Furthermore, the cam placement is pretty deep, which is good if your looking at the rock quality, however, unless your climbing some straight up splitter, again, that things going for a walk or is now buried. The stock slings, IMO, are inadequate in terms of length and need to be extended. Moreover, the guy in the video is a milkman and has no business climbing. What climber says "momma" anyway? This proves the milkman theory.

I was bummed to see the new post "what's wrong with jfassett" deleted. I was looking forward to a good "slanderfest". However, I should warn you, I invented the "slanderfest" along with Bob D'Antonio back in the early 90's. The bitch slap, well, I give full credit to Bob.

In conclusion, I would like to quote Russ Walling as I log off here... "that's about all I got on that"

JF

By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 15, 2008
Leading at Windy Point, Mount Lemmon.

the mysteries of the universe are revealed! now i can rest!

seriously though, good explanation.

By Scott M. Mossman
Feb 15, 2008
Messing around in RMNP in winter, climbing 5.7 in rubber snow boots and ski gloves.

I agree, more well thought out than I expected.

By Bob
Feb 15, 2008

Hey Jeff, what's wrong with this gear placement?

By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 15, 2008
teaching rappelling

Yeah, that's a good one! If I remember there is/was a big fat bolt right there as well. Never been in a spot where having five pieces of gear in turned out to be a bad thing.
How have you been Bob?

Jeff

By Bob
Feb 16, 2008

Indeed, there is/was a big fat bolt there...


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