By andy peter tretiakoff From Tucon,Az Feb 9, 2008
| There's no shiny bolt near it and it would look prettier with one. |  |
By George Wilson From Las Vegas Feb 9, 2008
| He's got a #1 clipped to the #.75. It seems the #1 would've been a better choice. Other than that, you got me! |  |
By CJD Feb 10, 2008
| Biner gate should be down and out but that is probably too old school for you guys to notice. |  |
By Jon Ruland From Tucson, AZ Feb 11, 2008
| i think i know. he gave his placement too much thought, didn't he? when you lead a trad route you should just shove in gear without paying too much attention to whether it will hold a lead fall because if you look at it too closely it'll make you worry and your climbing will suffer. |  |
By Richard Radcliffe From Louisville, CO Feb 11, 2008
| Jon Ruland wrote: i think i know. he gave his placement too much thought, didn't he? when you lead a trad route you should just shove in gear without paying too much attention to whether it will hold a lead fall because if you look at it too closely it'll make you worry and your climbing will suffer. Dang. Some 30 years of climbing and I've finally figured out why I'm such a pansy-ass. |  |
By Tom Hanson From Castle Rock, CO Feb 11, 2008
| That guy placing the cam is my milkman, Frank Henderson, who has absolutely no business climbing. He is currently collecting on a lawsuit that states that he is crippled due to a customer (me) forgetting to remove ice from my driveway back in December. He claims that he is paralyzed and can't walk, yet here he is, up on some route, placing gear. What a frickin' posing liar. |  |
By Jed Pointer From Boulder, CO Feb 11, 2008
| Tom Hanson wrote: That guy placing the cam is my milkman, Frank Henderson, who has absolutely no business climbing. He is currently collecting on a lawsuit that states that he is crippled due to a customer (me) forgetting to remove ice from my driveway back in December. He claims that he is paralyzed and can't walk, yet here he is, up on some route, placing gear. What a frickin' posing liar.
The video was added 4 months ago, which is a youtube timestamp - no? So the video is at least that old.
I got sued over an ice incident as well, so I feel your frustration. We won, as the jury concluded it probably never even happened.
The safety sign in Eldo indicates pro pulling during a lead fall is the #1 cause of injury in the canyon. This piece could be bomber, maybe not. Can't tell from the video. A #1 may be a better choice, but maybe that part of the crack is more flared. Just can't tell. |  |
By Tom Hanson From Castle Rock, CO Feb 11, 2008
| Hi Jed,
Ok, so maybe it isn't Frank Henderson in the video. But I truly feel that milkmen have no business climbing, whatsoever. |  |
By TP in SLC Feb 11, 2008
| The 3 day carrot is what is really wrong...........silly rabbits..... |  |
By Linda White From gilbert Feb 11, 2008
| there looks to be some sting hanging from the webbing by the biner that is facing the wrong way. Could it be the webbing maybe coming apart?
I would use the bigger size cam
Other than that, I give |  |
By Larry Pedigo Feb 11, 2008
| As it appears in the video (and I'm just making a wild assumption here about what is really going on), he's teaching someone leading concepts when it appears the learner has never even followed trad. There's a lot more to anchor building and leading than throwing in one cam and clipping it.
As someone mentioned, the piece looks undercammed. It could pop out or it could walk so far back they'll have a helluva time extracting it. |  |
By Leveille From Appleton, WI Feb 11, 2008
| After 96 hours of analyazizaiton this is the conclusive conclusion I attained:
An utter lack of attractive (top-less) females? |  |
By clmbrchick From Basalt Feb 13, 2008
| Whad up, JF, are you ever gonna fill us in on your Keen eye sight...What does yer good eye see that nobody else could figure out? Andrea |  |
By Dana Prosser From boulder,co Feb 13, 2008
| you place the piece "in the back of the rock"????? |  |
By Rodion Feb 13, 2008
| Obviously, he's a sissy because he's not placing a mammoth hex, or perhaps some sort of stove leg, in the big pod below. Sissies with their "camming devices". |  |
By James M Schroeder From FIB town USA Feb 13, 2008
| John Langston wrote: I'd whip on it, you bunch of ninnies.
I totally agree. Who cares if it's mildly overcammed and not "FOTH" style? That thing is BOMBER. |  |
By Bob Feb 14, 2008
| I believe Jeff is going to say that the guy should have clipped the biner directly to the camalot. I have climbed a little with him and he cuts the loops off of all of his gear. If I am correct, he will have to explain the rationale. |  |
By Mike Ecker From phoenix Feb 14, 2008
| I have been cutting the loop of my cams sence I bought my first cam. Its nice cause they dont hang to low on my rack (I'm a short guy) and if I climb anywhere like paridise forks or indian creek I just girth hitch a sewn sling on. Any time I'm multi-pitch climin or anything longer its nice to not have that extra weight or to have lose cams hanging to my knees(like I said I'm short).But to the subject at hand please let us know what you see that we dont. |  |
By John Langston Feb 14, 2008
| Leveille wrote: After 96 hours of analyazizaiton this is the conclusive conclusion I attained: An utter lack of attractive (top-less) females?
This is correct |  |
By Mark Nelson From Coniferous, CO Feb 14, 2008
| Frankly, I'm appalled and flabergasted at the apparant lack of common sense in not placing a stick of C-4 & detonator along the stem-line of the cam. I mean what if a gopher should happen upon this crag? Think of the children that could have been saved.. |  |
By lamina Feb 14, 2008
| I don't know how to crack climb but my guess is --
if he is leading, may be he will have his right hand in the crack about where he places the cam....and he will have to put the piece in with his left hand instead?
Or... if he is leading and with his left hand on a hand hold or in the crack, he will put the piece in with his right hand and test pull it with his right hand too?
Or... if he is placing the piece standing on a ledge, then he may hit the ledge if he fell on that piece?
Or, he did not take the other piece off and put a quick draw to clip the rope.... and where is the rope???
Hahaha... just some silly thoughts :P |  |
By Jason Halladay From Los Alamos, NM Feb 14, 2008
| Bob wrote: I believe Jeff is going to say that the guy should have clipped the biner directly to the camalot. I have climbed a little with him and he cuts the loops off of all of his gear. If I am correct, he will have to explain the rationale.
Mike Ecker wrote: I have been cutting the loop of my cams sence I bought my first cam. Its nice cause they dont hang to low on my rack (I'm a short guy) and if I climb anywhere like paridise forks or indian creek I just girth hitch a sewn sling on. Any time I'm multi-pitch climin or anything longer its nice to not have that extra weight or to have lose cams hanging to my knees(like I said I'm short).But to the subject at hand please let us know what you see that we dont.
If that's what Jeff is going to say, I'd disagree! :-) BD states in its cam literature that clipping directly into the wire loop with a carabiner can reduce the strength of the unit by up to 2kn. Also, the sling is useful to help keep the cam from walking as much. For lead climbing, I always clip using the sling on the cam. But for aid climbing, clipping the wire loop isn't so much an issue and gets you higher.
And oh yeah, I don't see anything wrong with that video??? Enlighten us Jeff! |  |
By j fassett From tucson Feb 14, 2008
| I've decided not to tell, however, looking for the sixth finger on his left hand is definitely looking outside the box and on the right track.
JF |  |
By John J. Glime From Salt Lake City, UT Feb 14, 2008
| j fassett wrote: I've decided not to tell, however, looking for the sixth finger on his left hand is definitely looking outside the box and on the right track. JF
Oh that's BULLSHIT! We aren't playing with you anymore... boycott Fassett. |  |
By Ben Kiessel Feb 14, 2008
| you're right john that is bullshit. |  |
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