By Tom Hanson From Castle Rock, CO Feb 8, 2008
| I give up. What's wrong with that picture? |  |
By manuel rangel From tempe, az Feb 8, 2008
| didn't look like anything was wrong, maybe he could have used a #2 instead but the lobes looked ok from what I could see. |  |
By Richard Radcliffe From Louisville, CO Feb 8, 2008
| The only possible issue that I could see was that the crack above the placement might have been flaring a bit, which, if the piece starts walking, could cause it come out. However, it was really hard to tell if it was flaring much, if at all. |  |
By j fassett From tucson Feb 8, 2008
| Look at the big picture here.
I'll hold off on my comments, I want to get some feedback and other opinions first.
Thanks,
JF |  |
By susan peplow From what day is this? Feb 8, 2008
| I too give...
It's a demonstration for some dude's mom so it's probably just a general instruction of how the pro works.
Other than that, the crack flares so it's possible that the cam could slide down and then free once it hits the wider crack.
Oh yeah, no rope and they're 4.5 ft off the deck.
Tell us... tell us!
~Susan |  |
By John J. Glime From Salt Lake City, UT Feb 8, 2008
| The cam is not cammed enough. I mean it would work, but he should choose a bigger cam or place that thing somewhere tighter.
I don't see a flare problem. It does make me want to go climbing.
OR he is using black diamond and it is made in china, and you think that is B.S.? |  |
By Tina S From Colorado Springs, CO Feb 8, 2008
| He says to take out the piece on your way DOWN. Your 2nd should clean it on his way up. |  |
By Tom Hanson From Castle Rock, CO Feb 8, 2008
| I've got it. The green Camalot clashes with the red sandstone. Complimentary colors work well together in 16th century religious paintings, but they are a fashion disaster when leading. What do I win? |  |
By John J. Glime From Salt Lake City, UT Feb 8, 2008
| From Tina's post, nah, that's irrelevant (i didn't listen to it though, I am at work!) |  |
By Tom Hanson From Castle Rock, CO Feb 8, 2008
| Perhaps the audio lends a clue. I have audio disconnected at work. I'm sticking with the fashion thing. |  |
By j fassett From tucson Feb 8, 2008
| The biggest problem is that I have too much time on my hands today. I know this might just be a demo for his mom or something, however, I think there are some things to think about with that placement if the guy was on the sharp end and off the deck.
JF |  |
By Richard Radcliffe From Louisville, CO Feb 8, 2008
| I've got it. He says "...when you fall...". The leader must not fall! |  |
By Mark Nelson From Coniferous, CO Feb 8, 2008
| he didn't rotate the cam to see if a flare would affect the placement. but would his mom really give a crap? He's just showing that a cam can hold a fall. |  |
By mike mullendore From columbia, md Feb 8, 2008
| cam is very undercammed, and he has 6 fingers on his left hand. |  |
By j fassett From tucson Feb 8, 2008
| That's funny! An excellent observation, you do have to look real hard to see the sixth finger however.
JF |  |
By bwillem From the Land of Greenies Feb 8, 2008
| he doesn't have 6 fingers....though that was a sneaky way to make me watch that again. |  |
By mike mullendore From columbia, md Feb 8, 2008
| bwillem wrote: he doesn't have 6 fingers....though that was a sneaky way to make me watch that again.
exactly what I was going for! how many people went back and watched it looking for the sixth finger? |  |
By Richard Radcliffe From Louisville, CO Feb 8, 2008
| mike mullendore wrote: exactly what I was going for! how many people went back and watched it looking for the sixth finger? I confess. Slow day at work... |  |
By Nate Oakes Feb 8, 2008
| Soooo..... what's wrong with it? |  |
By Kevin Hadfield From Durango, CO Feb 8, 2008
| I defenitely went back a few times looking for the finger... The cam is at a weird angle in the crack and it is so undercammed that some of the lobes (maybe all) are not engaged. Passive placement? Bad demo even for mom. |  |
By susan peplow From what day is this? Feb 9, 2008
| Kevin Hadfield wrote: .....Bad demo even for mom.
Come on now... bad demo? You've got a half a dozen experienced climbers looking for a problem and basically don't see one. You think ma's gonna pick up something wrong that we didn't. I'll take that bet.
~Susan |  |
By Richard Radcliffe From Louisville, CO Feb 9, 2008
| Nate Oakes wrote: Soooo..... what's wrong with it? C'mon j. We're all ears. |  |
By Richard Radcliffe From Louisville, CO Feb 9, 2008
| jeff walz wrote: Trigger loaded over edge? I had kind of a similar thought. A fall that takes the leader over to the right might cause the gate of the 'biner to hit up against the right edge of the crack (which is offset from the left edge) possibly allowing the rope to come unclipped. |  |
By John Langston Feb 9, 2008
| I'd whip on it, you bunch of ninnies. |  |
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