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what's wrong with this picture?

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By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 8, 2008
teaching rappelling

I saw this on you tube, what's wrong with this picture?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwxxJna7nb8&feature=related



JF

By Tom Hanson
From Castle Rock, CO
Feb 8, 2008
Busted

I give up.
What's wrong with that picture?

By manuel rangel
From tempe, az
Feb 8, 2008
I loved the Needles of the <br />Southern Sierra.  The route is Don Juan Wall 11b, this shot was taken by a hard woman just before my manly fall.

didn't look like anything was wrong, maybe he could have used a #2 instead but the lobes looked ok from what I could see.

By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Feb 8, 2008

The only possible issue that I could see was that the crack above the placement might have been flaring a bit, which, if the piece starts walking, could cause it come out. However, it was really hard to tell if it was flaring much, if at all.

By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 8, 2008
teaching rappelling

Look at the big picture here.

I'll hold off on my comments, I want to get some feedback and other opinions first.

Thanks,

JF

By susan peplow
From what day is this?
Feb 8, 2008
Beer Anyone?

I too give...

It's a demonstration for some dude's mom so it's probably just a general instruction of how the pro works.

Other than that, the crack flares so it's possible that the cam could slide down and then free once it hits the wider crack.

Oh yeah, no rope and they're 4.5 ft off the deck.

Tell us... tell us!

~Susan

By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 8, 2008
Follow the arrow...

The cam is not cammed enough. I mean it would work, but he should choose a bigger cam or place that thing somewhere tighter.

I don't see a flare problem. It does make me want to go climbing.

OR he is using black diamond and it is made in china, and you think that is B.S.?

By Tina S
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 8, 2008
Tina S on 10a To Defy the Laws of Tradition at Red River Gorge with Gary belaying.

He says to take out the piece on your way DOWN. Your 2nd should clean it on his way up.

By Tom Hanson
From Castle Rock, CO
Feb 8, 2008
Busted

I've got it.
The green Camalot clashes with the red sandstone.
Complimentary colors work well together in 16th century religious paintings, but they are a fashion disaster when leading.
What do I win?

By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 8, 2008
Follow the arrow...

From Tina's post,
nah, that's irrelevant (i didn't listen to it though, I am at work!)

By Tom Hanson
From Castle Rock, CO
Feb 8, 2008
Busted

Perhaps the audio lends a clue.
I have audio disconnected at work.
I'm sticking with the fashion thing.

By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 8, 2008
teaching rappelling

The biggest problem is that I have too much time on my hands today.
I know this might just be a demo for his mom or something, however, I think there are some things to think about with that placement if the guy was on the sharp end and off the deck.

JF

By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Feb 8, 2008

I've got it. He says "...when you fall...". The leader must not fall!

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Feb 8, 2008
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

he didn't rotate the cam to see if a flare would affect the placement. but would his mom really give a crap? He's just showing that a cam can hold a fall.

By mike mullendore
From columbia, md
Feb 8, 2008
Whitney from the Alabama Hills

cam is very undercammed, and he has 6 fingers on his left hand.

By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 8, 2008
teaching rappelling

That's funny! An excellent observation, you do have to look real hard to see the sixth finger however.

JF

By bwillem
From the Land of Greenies
Feb 8, 2008
Potato Chip, RMNP

he doesn't have 6 fingers....though that was a sneaky way to make me watch that again.

By j fassett
From tucson
Feb 8, 2008
teaching rappelling

Off topic, but I really like this one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6-TmSmWKxc&feature=related

JF

By mike mullendore
From columbia, md
Feb 8, 2008
Whitney from the Alabama Hills

bwillem wrote:
he doesn't have 6 fingers....though that was a sneaky way to make me watch that again.


exactly what I was going for! how many people went back and watched it looking for the sixth finger?

By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Feb 8, 2008

mike mullendore wrote:
exactly what I was going for! how many people went back and watched it looking for the sixth finger?

I confess. Slow day at work...

By Nate Oakes
Feb 8, 2008
~2000' above Boulder.

Soooo..... what's wrong with it?

By Kevin Hadfield
From Durango, CO
Feb 8, 2008
Photo by Grant Bryans.

I defenitely went back a few times looking for the finger...
The cam is at a weird angle in the crack and it is so undercammed that some of the lobes (maybe all) are not engaged. Passive placement? Bad demo even for mom.

By susan peplow
From what day is this?
Feb 9, 2008
Beer Anyone?

Kevin Hadfield wrote:
.....Bad demo even for mom.


Come on now... bad demo? You've got a half a dozen experienced climbers looking for a problem and basically don't see one. You think ma's gonna pick up something wrong that we didn't. I'll take that bet.

~Susan

By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Feb 9, 2008

Nate Oakes wrote:
Soooo..... what's wrong with it?

C'mon j. We're all ears.

By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Feb 9, 2008

jeff walz wrote:
Trigger loaded over edge?

I had kind of a similar thought. A fall that takes the leader over to the right might cause the gate of the 'biner to hit up against the right edge of the crack (which is offset from the left edge) possibly allowing the rope to come unclipped.

By John Langston
Feb 9, 2008

I'd whip on it, you bunch of ninnies.


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