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We need your old carabiners.

  [ Forums > Arizona & New Mexico ]
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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Charles Vernon wrote:
I'm heading to the gym tomorrow at 4, so I'll drop a dozen or so biners off then.


i'm heading to the gym in 26 minutes.

sorry, couldn't resist.


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By Steve Pulver
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 6, 2009

If you are testing them, have any failed? Is there some big new crag being developed?


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By jbaker
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 6, 2009
A steep climb too.

Regarding route maintenance... you guys do realize that aluminum has 5 to 10 times the wear rate of steel... right ?


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By Jimbo
Nov 7, 2009

jbak, if you want to donate a couple of hundred steel biners we'll put on all the routes we can.

Every one should always check the anchor and biners before they lower. If the biners are looking worn post it up and we'll replace them.

Cheers, and thanks for all the biners everyone!!


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By jbaker
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 7, 2009
A steep climb too.

It's not an attack Jim...just an observation. I've used just about everything imaginable as an anchor (including both alum and steel biners), but I like the fact that a nice fat chain or quick-link will last longer than anything else, so less to think about over time. But that's just me.


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 8, 2009
-

ideally, a the folks using these anchors will change out the biners as they become worn. i've done that a few times now.


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By Brigette
From Tucson, Arizona
Nov 8, 2009
At the anchors.

We collected a small pile of carabiners at Beanfest, which I'll leave with the gym staff one night this week - likely Thursday.


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By Eric Rhicard
Nov 8, 2009

Thanks Brigette! Had hoped to get down but I had a job to do today that wouldn't wait.


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By Eric Rhicard
Nov 8, 2009

My theory is that as they wear peoples self preservation will force them to replace the very worn ones thus eliminating the need for me to do any maintenance at all. Maintenance is a community effort. Thanks


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By Jimbo
Nov 9, 2009

jbak, I knew it wasn't an attack. I hope you didn't take my response that way.

I concur that steel chain lasts a very long time, but that whole threading the rope thing is just too inconvenient for those of us with busy lifestyles.

Clip, lower, take a cell call, respond to a text, then on to the next route.

If I have to take time to thread a chain I won't have time to update my tweet for the hour.


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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Nov 9, 2009

Eric Rhicard wrote:
Bobby, we use them on chains but more typically with a quick link through a bolt hanger then the biner. Most of them are used at the top of single pitch routes. But they do make multipitch climbs a breeze as you don't spend the time threading. I try to flip them over when lowering off of them so the end opposite the gate wears as well. If clipping the anchors is hard I leave one with the gate out and down so a tired, pumped leader doesn't fall off at the end trying to clip the anchors.


I've seen the "left biner" anchor elsewhere, namely So-Ill, but I am concerned about the flipping of the biner. If it is a hanger the biner is attached to, it will put small nicks in the biner which will wear the rope sheath. This is why people use only a metal side and rope side on their draws. Elsewise, I think it is a nice idea.


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By Red
From Arizona
Nov 9, 2009
Cobra Kai

Forestvonsinkafinger wrote:
I am concerned about the flipping of the biner. If it is a hanger the biner is attached to, it will put small nicks in the biner which will wear the rope sheath. This is why people use only a metal side and rope side on their draws. Elsewise, I think it is a nice idea.

EFR Said, "we use them on chains but more typically with a quick link through a bolt hanger then the biner."


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By Tradster
From Phoenix AZ
Nov 9, 2009

I didn't know who to give them to at Bean Fest. How about at the Cleanup?


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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 13, 2009

Not sure if you wanna do this all yourself, if you're being selective with placement or if there's more too it than I know but if you need some help getting them to the top of routes I'd be more than happy to help out. Between me and the 3 people I climb with the most we've seen the anchors on over a dozen climbs (from 5.6 to 5.12) on Lemmon this week.

Also, I can bring a can of orange paint and write "Please DO NOT remove Biners, Thank you, Eric Rhicard" if you think that will help.


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By Eric Rhicard
Nov 13, 2009

Thanks for the clarification Red. Tradster, give them to anyone from Tucson and ask them to leave them at the gym for me. We really appreciate the help. TucsonAZ, No need to spray paint the biners as we are already using a stencil and painting the same thing at the top of each route. That bright orange stuff helps people know they are at the top. Ha Ha!


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By Brigette
From Tucson, Arizona
Nov 13, 2009
At the anchors.

Eric: I left the small pile of biners collected at Beanfest at the gym last night. FYI - the brand new, shiny ones are from Mike Dudley. What a guy!


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By Eric Rhicard
Nov 16, 2009

Thanks Brigette.
Thanks also to Mike Dudley.
We sure appreciate the contributions.

We have now collected over 60 Biners. You will find them at the tops of most new routes. Please remember not to TR from them. Use your own draws and have the last person up clip the leaver biners then unclip the quick draws before lowering. Thanks

7 new routes (2 trad 5 sport) have been established at the Sphinx above Paradox Rock. 2 sets of anchors have also been used at the top of Diehedral and West Face routes. These are both old Trad climbs and it makes getting down easy.


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By Brigette
From Tucson, Arizona
Nov 16, 2009
At the anchors.

Eric: FYI - the reply to your PM that I sent bounced back. You may need to update your email address with MountainProject.com. Here's a copy:

The obnoxiously-labeled lockers were mine. The brand-spagglin'-new wire gates are from Mike Dudley.

Thanks for all you do. Without guys like you, I'd have to hang out at the mall on Sundays...

Brigette


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