By Eric Rhicard Oct 28, 2009
| As you know Jim and I have been using old biners at the anchors. Many of you have donated generously and we appreciate if. If you have some old ones laying around we could use them. My rack and draws have been scavenged to the point that I don't have enough to lead a route at the gym! Thanks for your help and support. EFR and Jimbo |  FLAG |
By Geir Hundal From Tucson, AZ Oct 28, 2009
| This is a great way that you can contribute to the local climbing community. Eric and Jim's slick way for using old carabiners for top anchors is not only really convenient, but much safer as it eliminates the need to untie when cleaning a route. Further, it makes multi-pitch rappels go very smoothly. I've got a half-dozen or so that I can throw in to get the ball rolling. |  FLAG |
By Luke Bertelsen Oct 28, 2009
| I've got some. Can I leave them at the gym for you next week???? Just let me know and I'll get them to wherever.
Nice job. |  FLAG |
By Brigette From Tucson, Arizona Oct 28, 2009
| Maybe we can take up a collection at Beanfest. |  FLAG |
By Mike Dudley From Tucson Oct 29, 2009
| I dont have any old ones but ill try and nab a few from summit hut and bring them down to bean fest. |  FLAG |
By Geir Hundal From Tucson, AZ Oct 29, 2009
| Wow - now that's a stand up guy! Very cool Mike! |  FLAG |
By Red From Arizona Oct 30, 2009
| Mike Dudley wrote: I dont have any old ones but ill try and nab a few from summit hut and bring them down to bean fest. Kinda what I was starting to think about... All mine are still in good/usable condition. |  FLAG |
By Bobby Hanson From Salt Lake City, UT Oct 30, 2009
| Eric, just curious: what do you do with them? Geir's post suggests there is more to it than just clipping them into some chain. |  FLAG |
By Eric Rhicard Oct 30, 2009
| Bobby, we use them on chains but more typically with a quick link through a bolt hanger then the biner. Most of them are used at the top of single pitch routes. But they do make multipitch climbs a breeze as you don't spend the time threading. I try to flip them over when lowering off of them so the end opposite the gate wears as well. If clipping the anchors is hard I leave one with the gate out and down so a tired, pumped leader doesn't fall off at the end trying to clip the anchors. |  FLAG |
By Tony B From Boulder, CO Oct 30, 2009
| I'm a little surprised people don't swipe them, but plesantly so. People tend to 'collect' even worthless stuff on the principle of it if they can. |  FLAG |
By Red From Arizona Oct 30, 2009
| Tony B wrote: I'm a little surprised people don't swipe them, but plesantly so. People tend to 'collect' even worthless stuff on the principle of it if they can. Most AZ climbers don't role like that. Hung draws or anchor biners are not booty. A hung biner(one) is fair game. |  FLAG |
By stredna From PA & NY Oct 30, 2009
| so climbers are lowering time and time again on someone elses "old" biner? and it is just one non-locker they are lowering off? |  FLAG |
By Rob Dillon From Short Circuit Oct 30, 2009
| don't worry, they pull-test the old biners with an F350 before they hang'em. |  FLAG |
By Bobby Hanson From Salt Lake City, UT Oct 30, 2009
| Like Tony, I'm pleasantly surprised they remain unswiped.
If I remember to bring some down with me next time I visit my folks, I'll donate. |  FLAG |
By Charles Vernon From Tucson AZ Oct 30, 2009
| I probably have at least a dozen old 'biners--most are found biners, a few are ones that I dropped--that I don't use anymore if you guys want 'em (I want to keep a few to use as leaver biners). I probably won't be at Beanfest, but I could leave them at the gym or figure something else out. |  FLAG |
By Jon Ruland From Tucson, AZ Oct 30, 2009
| stredna wrote: so climbers are lowering time and time again on someone elses "old" biner? and it is just one non-locker they are lowering off?
no, there are 2 of them, one for each anchor bolt. |  FLAG |
By Eric Rhicard Oct 30, 2009
| Leave them at the gym if you would Charles. I will make sure I get there next week and will ask at the desk. We really appreciate the help as it keeps the cost way down and makes the whole system safer. Thanks. EFR & Jimbo |  FLAG |
By Charles Vernon From Tucson AZ Oct 31, 2009
| Hey Eric, I'll post here to let you know when I've dropped them off at the gym--I should get there sometime during Mon.-Wed. |  FLAG |
By Eric D Nov 2, 2009
| Hey Eric - We nabbed a leaver biner off of P1 of Jabberwocky a few weekends ago. I can donate that to the cause. Har, har, har!
Is it against the rules to talk trash if we didn't top out the route either? |  FLAG |
By Eric Rhicard Nov 3, 2009
| Touche, Eric D. Thanks for the donations. 46 biners so far which translates to 23 anchors. Thank you all. At the current rate of development these should last about 4 months. That is great. Thank you, thank you, thank you! |  FLAG |
By Mike Covington Nov 4, 2009
| I'll be at Rocks n Ropes Sat. Nov. 14. I will leave a bunch of locker biners for the cause. |  FLAG |
By Charles Vernon From Tucson AZ Nov 4, 2009
| I'm heading to the gym tomorrow at 4, so I'll drop a dozen or so biners off then. |  FLAG |
By Brigette From Tucson, Arizona Nov 4, 2009
| Eric: Will you be at Beanfest? If not, I'll hook up with you afterward to get you whatever is donated at the fest. |  FLAG |
By Geir Hundal From Tucson, AZ Nov 4, 2009
| awesome everyone! these biners are going to a really good cause. keep up the good work! |  FLAG |
|