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We need your old carabiners.

  [ Forums > Arizona & New Mexico ]
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By Eric Rhicard
Oct 28, 2009

As you know Jim and I have been using old biners at the anchors. Many of you have donated generously and we appreciate if. If you have some old ones laying around we could use them. My rack and draws have been scavenged to the point that I don't have enough to lead a route at the gym! Thanks for your help and support. EFR and Jimbo


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Oct 28, 2009
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This is a great way that you can contribute to the local climbing community. Eric and Jim's slick way for using old carabiners for top anchors is not only really convenient, but much safer as it eliminates the need to untie when cleaning a route. Further, it makes multi-pitch rappels go very smoothly. I've got a half-dozen or so that I can throw in to get the ball rolling.


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By Luke Bertelsen
Oct 28, 2009

I've got some. Can I leave them at the gym for you next week???? Just let me know and I'll get them to wherever.

Nice job.


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By Brigette
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 28, 2009
At the anchors.

Maybe we can take up a collection at Beanfest.


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By Eric Rhicard
Oct 28, 2009

I like your thinking Brigette. Thanks


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By Mike Dudley
From Tucson
Oct 29, 2009
Crux of Picante Sauce - Picante Roof

I dont have any old ones but ill try and nab a few from summit hut and bring them down to bean fest.


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Oct 29, 2009
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Wow - now that's a stand up guy! Very cool Mike!


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By Red
From Arizona
Oct 30, 2009
Cobra Kai

Mike Dudley wrote:
I dont have any old ones but ill try and nab a few from summit hut and bring them down to bean fest.

Kinda what I was starting to think about... All mine are still in good/usable condition.


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By Eric Rhicard
Oct 30, 2009

Thanks guys.


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By Bobby Hanson
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2009

Eric, just curious: what do you do with them? Geir's post suggests there is more to it than just clipping them into some chain.


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By Eric Rhicard
Oct 30, 2009

Bobby, we use them on chains but more typically with a quick link through a bolt hanger then the biner. Most of them are used at the top of single pitch routes. But they do make multipitch climbs a breeze as you don't spend the time threading. I try to flip them over when lowering off of them so the end opposite the gate wears as well. If clipping the anchors is hard I leave one with the gate out and down so a tired, pumped leader doesn't fall off at the end trying to clip the anchors.


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By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2009
Tony Leads the 'East Overhang (5.10d)' of the Second Flatiron in Colorado. Image by Peter Spindloe, ~2002.

I'm a little surprised people don't swipe them, but plesantly so. People tend to 'collect' even worthless stuff on the principle of it if they can.


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By Red
From Arizona
Oct 30, 2009
Cobra Kai

Tony B wrote:
I'm a little surprised people don't swipe them, but plesantly so. People tend to 'collect' even worthless stuff on the principle of it if they can.

Most AZ climbers don't role like that. Hung draws or anchor biners are not booty. A hung biner(one) is fair game.


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By stredna
From PA & NY
Oct 30, 2009
Top o' the Preist

so climbers are lowering time and time again on someone elses "old" biner? and it is just one non-locker they are lowering off?


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By Rob Dillon
From Short Circuit
Oct 30, 2009

don't worry, they pull-test the old biners with an F350 before they hang'em.


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By Bobby Hanson
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2009

Like Tony, I'm pleasantly surprised they remain unswiped.

If I remember to bring some down with me next time I visit my folks, I'll donate.


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By Charles Vernon
From Tucson AZ
Oct 30, 2009

I probably have at least a dozen old 'biners--most are found biners, a few are ones that I dropped--that I don't use anymore if you guys want 'em (I want to keep a few to use as leaver biners). I probably won't be at Beanfest, but I could leave them at the gym or figure something else out.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Oct 30, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

stredna wrote:
so climbers are lowering time and time again on someone elses "old" biner? and it is just one non-locker they are lowering off?


no, there are 2 of them, one for each anchor bolt.


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By Eric Rhicard
Oct 30, 2009

Leave them at the gym if you would Charles. I will make sure I get there next week and will ask at the desk. We really appreciate the help as it keeps the cost way down and makes the whole system safer. Thanks. EFR & Jimbo


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By Charles Vernon
From Tucson AZ
Oct 31, 2009

Hey Eric, I'll post here to let you know when I've dropped them off at the gym--I should get there sometime during Mon.-Wed.


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By Eric D
Nov 2, 2009
Before the tyrolean on Sun Ribbon Arete, high Sierras.

Hey Eric - We nabbed a leaver biner off of P1 of Jabberwocky a few weekends ago. I can donate that to the cause. Har, har, har!

Is it against the rules to talk trash if we didn't top out the route either?


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By Eric Rhicard
Nov 3, 2009

Touche, Eric D. Thanks for the donations. 46 biners so far which translates to 23 anchors. Thank you all. At the current rate of development these should last about 4 months. That is great. Thank you, thank you, thank you!


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By Mike Covington
Nov 4, 2009

I'll be at Rocks n Ropes Sat. Nov. 14. I will leave a bunch of locker biners for the cause.


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By Charles Vernon
From Tucson AZ
Nov 4, 2009

I'm heading to the gym tomorrow at 4, so I'll drop a dozen or so biners off then.


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By Brigette
From Tucson, Arizona
Nov 4, 2009
At the anchors.

Eric: Will you be at Beanfest? If not, I'll hook up with you afterward to get you whatever is donated at the fest.


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2009
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awesome everyone! these biners are going to a really good cause. keep up the good work!


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