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Tucson Bouldering Ratings

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By DDriscoll
From Tucson, Arizona
Mar 28, 2008

What are boulder problems in Tucson that are a benchmark for their grade?
The Rails @ Silverbell V6?
Broken Rubber @ Gates V6?
Hairpin Roof @ Lemmon V6?
Flake @ Matterhorn V5?
Jewel Thief @ Matterhorn V10?
Grade can be so confusing at times...for example the Flake on Matterhorn seems WAY harder than the other V5's I've climbed at Hueco. Any more experienced boulderers have anything to say?
Daniel

By Andrew Ryder
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2008
Stretching it out on a great Warm-Up Wall moderate.

Just about everything I've been on in Tucson feels pretty sandbagged, especially The Flake and a lot of the other stuff V5 and under. I feel like The Rails is pretty right on, though. My guess is that most of the climbing around town just doesn't fit my style.

By Tommy Wilson
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 29, 2008

In terms of benchmarking grades, it strikes me it remains a personal thing that depends on the beta you use, your willingness to send, your level of fitness, and a billion other day to day variables (rest, food, etc.). If you're in route shape, a 15 move boulder with a v6 crux might seem easy, while a hangboard trained gym monkey might get pumped on the early moves. Not only that, but grades and styles of climbing differ wildly from area to area and region to region. You might send v6 in Tucson only to find yourself flailing on a v4 in Prescott. You might be a dagger on Hueco crimps, but a belly-flopper on slopey Southern topouts.

So for me, a problem like the Flake seems really hard because I have a hard time crimping with my right hand at that angle due to an injury. So it feels like a v6 or a v7 relative to what I remember (this is key) of other boulders I have done. Clearly, Bob Murray and a host of other people find it easier. Is it a v5 or a v7? It's neither. It's a boulder problem.

That said, if I sent it tomorrow I'd list it at v6 on my 8a scorecard :)

closet grade chaser,

tommy
http://bluegrassbouldering.wordpress.com




By DDriscoll
From Tucson, Arizona
Mar 30, 2008

Thanks...I was just curious because if I do something new thats unrated, it's really hard to rate. There really are so many factors. Maybe I'll just go with the B scale.


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