By Tommy Wilson From Tucson, AZ Mar 29, 2008
| In terms of benchmarking grades, it strikes me it remains a personal thing that depends on the beta you use, your willingness to send, your level of fitness, and a billion other day to day variables (rest, food, etc.). If you're in route shape, a 15 move boulder with a v6 crux might seem easy, while a hangboard trained gym monkey might get pumped on the early moves. Not only that, but grades and styles of climbing differ wildly from area to area and region to region. You might send v6 in Tucson only to find yourself flailing on a v4 in Prescott. You might be a dagger on Hueco crimps, but a belly-flopper on slopey Southern topouts.
So for me, a problem like the Flake seems really hard because I have a hard time crimping with my right hand at that angle due to an injury. So it feels like a v6 or a v7 relative to what I remember (this is key) of other boulders I have done. Clearly, Bob Murray and a host of other people find it easier. Is it a v5 or a v7? It's neither. It's a boulder problem.
That said, if I sent it tomorrow I'd list it at v6 on my 8a scorecard :)
closet grade chaser,
tommy http://bluegrassbouldering.wordpress.com
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