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State's best bouldering?

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By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 8, 2007

What is the best bouldering area in New Mexico?

By Joseph Stover
Sep 8, 2007

I can't judge for best as I have only been to very few, but City of Rocks State Park is really awesome.

I really enjoy just searching out a set of moves that looks doable and gripping away. I am sure there are many 'established' routes but don't know of any guide.

Its really cool if you get a campsite that has a good problem in it too!

By carlos
From Taos, NM
Sep 9, 2007
Rodellar, Spain

Hmm tough question....I'll just go from north to south all the good areas. Questa Dome, Tres Piedra, Ponderosa, The Temple, The Box, and Pena Blanca. Haven't been to city of rocks but heard itis pretty cool. Also there are many small areas that I haven't been to and may be really good. IMO I would say either Ponderosa, Questa Dome or TP(if you know where the good stuff is) are the best in the state, in that order.

By Williampenner
Sep 10, 2007
Looking up the 2nd pitch.  The route climbs the obvious prow above.

E,

You first have to define area--do the entire Sandias foothills count as an area? Probably not so I say the Range. I know you disagree so post up what you think.

If you consider greater Ponderosa and all its subareas as one area it crushes.

By carlos
From Taos, NM
Sep 11, 2007
Rodellar, Spain

W,

I have to disagree, when people talk about Joe's Valley they usually say Joe's Valley, not "The left fork" or "New Joe's" , and Rocky Mountain National Park, not "Upper chaos canyon", and Hueco, not "The east spur", etc etc etc. Sorry that was all kind of crunched together but you get my drift. All in all I think he was just looking for a general area, but I could be wrong. Anywho, its all opinion and that is all I have to offer, so happy climbing, and enjoy whatever rocks you end up on. Oh and I just thought of another reason to keep it simple, if I had said "The Black Hole Boulders, or The Boneyard" at Questa Dome, he could never find those areas, because I just cleaned and sent them about 5 weeks ago and only 3 other people have seen them. Once again just opinion so, have a good one.

By Williampenner
Sep 11, 2007
Looking up the 2nd pitch.  The route climbs the obvious prow above.

C,

Your Joe's Valley example is good and point taken. My point was only that defining the terms helps to answer his question. By any way of tallying things 3 Gun Springs in the Sandias is different than U-Mound, the Rock House, Acid Canyon, or the Temple even though they are all in the same mountain range. Given that they are separated by long distances and 10-50 minute drives they would likely not be considered a single area. I realize what Eric is getting at, although my question to him, not you, still stands. I would guess that as a local he does not consider the entire Sandias one bouldering area although an out of town person might.

My vote is still for The Range near Ponderosa although I admit I am totally biased. C, I am glad you have been putting up new problems at Questa and I hope they are nice and tall. Some of the other stuff I have tried up there was short and slightly disappointing for that reason.

Keep finding that new rock.

By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 12, 2007

William is right. By area, I mean a place where you can boulder without moving your car. As for my opinion, I am not sure that I know where the best bouldering area is, thus the posting.

By carlos
From Taos, NM
Sep 19, 2007
Rodellar, Spain

point taken, and in agreement. Its kind of nice just to hear people talking about the bouldering in NM, oh and the stuff in Questa I've been finding is quite tall for the most part.

By Paul Davidson
Apr 3, 2008

well.... Until Pondersa got "discovered", I thought it was pretty good.

Always been real partial to Posos Lake myself.
Just a bit too far away... Same goes for City of Rocks.

By Bob Broilo
From Socorro, NM
Apr 3, 2008

Paul Davidson wrote:
well.... Until Pondersa got "discovered", I thought it was pretty good.


The best times at Ponderosa are to be had by wandering aimlessly and climbing what appears. The rock seems to get polished quickly.

The best areas in New Mexico? Very subjective. Rock quality, difficulty, asthetics, quantity, etc make it impossible for me to form an opinion.

The best rock quality is Penasco Springs. Bullet, clean, perfect holds. But the angle makes everything V0-V2. Questa had near perfect stone but everything I found was lowball. Riley has nice Dakota but lowball AND easy.

There are too many absolutely beautiful areas to judge on asthetics.

By sandstonesloper
Apr 4, 2008

I've been to all of these places and I must say hands down - ROY - The most extensive amount of high quailty sandstone bouldering in NM.

By Bob Broilo
From Socorro, NM
Apr 4, 2008

carlos wrote:
oh and the stuff in Questa I've been finding is quite tall for the most part.


(ears perk up)

You found tall stuff? Sweeeeeet!

So sandstonesloper, the cat's now officially out of the bag? Nice seeing you up there Saturday.

By wilddoc
Apr 14, 2008

I'm gonna be in Albuquerque for a week starting this Wednesday (April 16th). Have a rental car and no schedule. Anybody need a spot?

By Luke Hanley
From Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2008

Da Vinci Bouldering Area..TP


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