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Southern Arizona Anchor/Bolt Replacement Thread

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By Braxton Norwood
From Tucson
Mar 13, 2008
Now in hi-res!

This is not intended to start a fight about chopping, retrobolting, debolting, superbolting, overbolting, underbolting, or who's got the longest...hair. I just think it'd be nice if there were a list of routes that could use some love and affection (meaning replacing what's worn-out, not adding bolts). I wouldn't mind replacing a bolt or anchor if I know I'm going out there anyway.

EDIT: If you replace anything, please let me know and I'll update the list.

Running list of suggested routes-areas (as of 3/17/08):
Agatha Christie-North Fin (routes to its left w/ Leeper's)
Ego Donor-Swim Fin (anchor)
Faded Rock
Goosehead
Hitchcock Pinnacle (bolts on the top)
Mistaken Identity-Chimney Rock
Rappel Rock (several routes with manky bolts, Leeper's, missing pins)
Steppin' In The Slide Zone-Mean Mistreater (Leeper's)
Stoner's Boner*-Chimney Rock (old anchor needs pulled)
Tears of a Clown-North Fin

Running list of improved routes-areas (as of 3/26/08):
Bashie Crack: Rebolted 03/08. Now has a proper 2 bolt anchor.
Stoner's Boner: New anchor installed 02/08. The old anchor is still there (one coldshut spins, you can see the shaft of the other bolt from underneath). The old holes probably could not have been re-used due to the installation of the old 1/2" buttonheads.

By andy peter tretiakoff
From Tucon,Az
Mar 13, 2008
Getting ready for an early morning tour.

I'm sure that there are a few out there!

By Braxton Norwood
From Tucson
Mar 13, 2008
Now in hi-res!

andy peter tretiakoff wrote:
I'm sure that there are a few out there!

Such as...?

By andy peter tretiakoff
From Tucon,Az
Mar 13, 2008
Getting ready for an early morning tour.

Braxton,
I remember someone mentioning a "Gear Alert" for "Ego Donor's" chain's. The wear was mentioned to be 30-40% worn through. Not sure if it's been upgraded since the post? I think it's awesome that someone is stepping up to the plate to upgrade some worn out hardware on lemmon's most popular climb's!
I'd love to offer some help, but I'm healing a Ski Injury and have dumped a big sum of money in a new area up high on Mt. Lemmon late last fall. I know Ben Burnham has upgraded a lot over the past year's, but I'm unsure if he's still doing it?

By Eric Rhicard
Mar 13, 2008

You and your threads Braxton, nothing but trouble waiting to happen. And I really don't want to talk about the length of my hair, not either one of them.

Page 164 in SQ II Tears of a Clown. It is a good run on a leeper hanger as I recall. There are two routes left of Agatha Christie that have Leeper Hangers. I have always wanted to lead them but never have. Might do it if the hangers were replaced. Check out the goosehead too. Just a glance will give you a bit more work to do.

By Joseph Stover
Mar 14, 2008

I mentioned the thing about Ego Donor a while back. Haven't been back to it yet, so don't know the status, but was given permission by one of the FA's to replace the chains. I'd be happy to do that. I think it would be good since it is a popular route. A new chain would be good, I thought the bolts were fine. My judgement is not from years of gear maintenance experience though. So I may have be concerned about nothing. All anchors tend to scare me anyway...

I just have to figure out how, I assume I just clip into the anchor hangers, cut the welded attachment links, then put on the new screw links and chains, correct? The only problem is that cutting those attachment links would be a job for me as I'd have to use a hack saw.

andy wrote:
...I'm healing a Ski Injury...


damn snow! me too... sprained knee ligament :(

By Jimbo
Mar 14, 2008

I've soloed Ego Donor several times so I'm going to chop the bolts and the hangers!! Then the rest of you will have to do it in the style I have set forth. You shall all feel my pain!!!

Oh wait...wrong tread, again, forgive me Bob D.

Just kidding.

Good on ya for replacing the bad steel!!

I'll come up with some routes for you in the near future.

By Bob D'Antonio
From Superior, CO
Mar 14, 2008
Ute pass

Jimbo...you are forgiven.

I saw Bashie Crack in the list above...funny story on that one. I bouldered with Bob Murray since the mid-70's and never once came close to doing something that he couldn't do...until Bashie Crack...call it luck but that day I put the bolts in...on lead if I remember correctly and did it...was the end of his streak.

I think it may be 5.13-

Also...he started a new streak the next day that lasted well into the 90's.

By andy peter tretiakoff
From Tucon,Az
Mar 14, 2008
Getting ready for an early morning tour.

Bolting is not a normal person's activity! Also it makes some people upset.

Mad Pitbull!

By Eric Rhicard
Mar 15, 2008

Nice Andy, can you get him/her to do that on command? I would like to use that in a number of threads it would save me a lot of typing.

By Eric Rhicard
Mar 15, 2008

Hey Bob, I don't know if it has ever been repeated. I worked on it once or twice. I remember it as stupid thin, powerful and painful. Nice job. Bet you are glad you never have to do it again.

By rickd
Mar 15, 2008

did Coriolis ever get rebolted?

heavy winter weather has surely beat up those five 1/4" w/ leeper hangers....

By andy peter tretiakoff
From Tucon,Az
Mar 15, 2008
Getting ready for an early morning tour.

Eric,
No, It's normally the attitude stare.

The mean look.

The Mad Russian.

By Christian
From Tucson, Az
Mar 16, 2008

The anchors on "Mistaken Identity" look pretty sketchy.

Edit: Oops it's already on the list above.

By Braxton Norwood
From Tucson
Mar 16, 2008
Now in hi-res!

Christian wrote:
The anchors on "Mistaken Identity" look pretty sketchy. Edit: Oops it's already on the list above.


I added MI to the list after I saw you posted it. Thanks!

By rickd
Mar 17, 2008

most of the steiger era routes on Faded rock need new bolts as well if anyone is interested...

By Christian
From Tucson, Az
Apr 7, 2008

The ledge where "Ratline" and the first pitch of "Crow's Nest" could use a regular belay/rappel anchor. Right now there's a a set of two regular (non-rappel)bolts + one lone non-rappel bolt a bit up and right from those two.

Would be nice to be able to bail from the first pitch of Crow's Nest or do Ratline without leaving a carabiner.

By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 7, 2008
Leading at Windy Point, Mount Lemmon.

Christian wrote:
The ledge where "Ratline" and the first pitch of "Crow's Nest" could use a regular belay/rappel anchor. Right now there's a a set of two regular (non-rappel)bolts + one lone non-rappel bolt a bit up and right from those two. Would be nice to be able to bail from the first pitch of Crow's Nest or do Ratline without leaving a carabiner.


alas, my carabiner...i weep for thee, alone at the top of rateline.

By Christian
From Tucson, Az
Apr 7, 2008

Sorry , the lone bolt is up and left from the set of two bolts.

By chrispy
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 13, 2008

Leviathon-North Face could use some work. P2's slab moves are even more exciting looking at that old hardware. Anybody up for a MAJOR outing?

By Brent Silvester
Apr 15, 2008
a good hair cut goes a long way.<br />Dress For Success!

chrispy wrote:
Leviathon-North Face could use some work. P2's slab moves are even more exciting looking at that old hardware. Anybody up for a MAJOR outing?


Hey there chrispy. I'm in . . . I hear the hike is slightly uphill. I figure if you're hiking all the way up there with climbing gear, what's a few extra bolts and a drill going to add to the "approach"


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