By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 2, 2008
| The interesting thing about this discussion is it has actually changed my view considerably on this debate. I started out with the opinion of "if it's a sport climb, bolt it until it's absolutely idiot-proof" (okay, maybe not to that extreme) but now i'm thinking more along the lines of CJD's post. I enjoy both but also recognize the importance of keeping the gear placement [art] form alive, soooo bottom line.... i say staple him! |  |
By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 2, 2008
| CJD wrote: What's wrong with leaving a few climbs for the climbers who want to challenge themselves mentally and physically. Placing gear is an art and we should cutivate that art rather than whitewash every climb for the lowest common denominator.
there's nothing wrong with it.
i just did a search on MP to compare the number of 5.11 trad routes to the number of 5.11 sport routes on mount lemmon. the search returned 18 trad routes and 89 sport routes. that's 5 sport routes for every trad route. it's OK to leave a few routes unbolted if they take natural gear. sport climbers will survive.
EDIT:
i know this isn't fair to sport climbers but i couldn't resist. to me the solar flare discussion seems like:
| |
By Joseph Stover
Apr 2, 2008
| For the record, I bet Mt Lemmon has 2-3 times more trad(mixed) 11's than sport. Not that I am complaining!
At least in SQII, there are about 3 times as many trad routes (mixed, require any non-fixed gear{for a typical safe ascent}) than sport routes(only fixed gear). Of course the ratio is much different if you refer to routes that only need a piece or two of gear as sport.
But maybe the majority of new routes being developed are sport, and the majority of users climb and post sport routes. I think it's quite obvious why sport climbing is more popular: it's cheaper and "safer" for the end-user. Although it's definitely not cheaper for the FA team!
That diagram is probably pretty accurate though! | |
By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Apr 2, 2008
| Trad Climber - "Sweet, a fixed pin; thank you, thank you, thank you!!"
Alpinist - "DAMN-IT! a f'n fixed pin."
Ice Climber - "Screw the pins; Ice! Big Ice!!!" | |
By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 2, 2008
| Sport climber - "Please, GOD, Pleaaasse let there be a bolt up there..." | |
By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 2, 2008
| Daryl Allan wrote: Sport climber - "Please, GOD, Pleaaasse let there be a bolt up there..."
or "what the hell do i do with this thing?? it looks like a fkn PIN!!" | |
By Eric Rhicard
Apr 4, 2008
| Okay Jon, NO BOLTS FOR YOU! NO bolts for anyone on SF. It is a good climb and those that lead it now will remember it a bit longer. It has been entertaining. Thanks | |
By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 8, 2008
| Eric Rhicard wrote: Okay Jon, NO BOLTS FOR YOU! NO bolts for anyone on SF. It is a good climb and those that lead it now will remember it a bit longer. It has been entertaining. Thanks
heh, of all the people in this thread i'm sure i'm the one who would need bolts the most. thanks for all the great climbs eric. =) | |
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