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Route Info for The Wedge, Organ Mountains (New Mexico)

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By Roger Rumsey
Jan 3, 2008

My climbing partner and I were in the Organs over the Christmas break climbing on The Tooth. The west ridge on The Wedge looks awesome. Anyone have any beta or useful information on the route and descent. Mainly just want to know if it is as good as it looks and whether it is worth the effort to hike into it?

Information would be appreciated. Thanks

By Pat Gioannini
From Tucson, AZ
Jan 12, 2008

I climbed the Wedge several times in the early 90s. We climbed the west ridge, a route about 1/3 of the way from the west to the east (we were trying to do the S Face, Direct Route but who knows if we were on route), and S Face, Diagonal Route.

I enjoyed all the routes we did on the Wedge but they are not as clean and nice as the tooth. I enjoy adventure climbing.

I seem to remember the descent being off the east side and then a brushy walk back to the south face. I usually took a handfull of wired nuts to leave as repel anchors if we got lost or ran into trouble. I think the tree mentioned in the guide is long gone. We also rapped down the east side of the south face once.

Other obscure peaks worth walking to in the organs include middle rabbit ear, gurtch's folly, false tooth, sugarloaf, and organ peak all have good routes on them.

Be very scared of the ancient 1/4 inch bolts, they will break if you fall on them.


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