By Larry Nov 5, 2009
| In Bob Kerry's book, on pages 222 and 223 he shows locations of several routes that are not mentioned in the text.
Do any of you long-time Strongholdistas have any details?
On Rockfellow proper: Twenty Little Black Dogs Journey from Darkness Labyrinth Dromedary Tour du Jour (These last three are somewhat detailed in Kerry's book. I'd like to hear some personal experiences, though.)
On Lost Tower: Headkeeper
On Chay Desa Tsay: Death Lost Devoid |  FLAG |
By rickd Nov 5, 2009
| a more complete list (circa 2003)
Buzzard's Roost a)Buzz Kill, 5.8+ A1 b)Trail of My Fears, 5.9 c)Still Runnin', 5.10- d)Tour De Jour, 5.10 A0 e)Route RTMD, 5.8 f)5.8.
a)Twenty Little Black Dogs, 5.8. b)T.L.B. Dogs pod var.(5.9 c)Southwest Chimney Route, 5.7 d)The Longest Yard, 5. e)Thousand Clowns, 5.9 f)Thousand Clowns Var., 5.10 g)Laughing Boy, 5.8 on Bastion Towers somewhere h)Southeast Chimney Route, 5.6? i)Just Nuances, 5.8
end dome a)Journey From Darkness, 5.11+
rockfellow a)The Dromedary, 5.10 b)Upper Terrace, 5.10 c)5.11? SA, 1998/9 d)Over Easy, 5.10- A1 e)Over Easy Variation (A-D f)Pitch Black, 5.10 g)bolted slab, 5.10 h)5.11c i)Jabberwocky, 5.12 j)Abracadaver, 5.11 k)Knead-Me, 5.9 A.0 l)Sport Route, 5.11 m)Lumpy Unmentionables, 5.11- R n)Coming To Grips Var, 5.11 o)Coming to Grips, 5.11 p)Sensory Desuetude, 5.10+ R q)OW/Fistcrack Route, 5.10+? r)The Long Strange Trip, 5.11a s)Hex Chimney, 5.5 t)Falcon and the Snowjob, 5.7 w)Labyrinth 5.9
On Lost Tower: a)Half Ass, 5.9 b)5.10+/5.11-. SA c)Hello There Corner, 5.9+/5.10-. d)Regular Route, 5.6. e)Head Keeper, 5.8. f)White Lines Direct, 5.9, or 5.10. g)White Lines, 5.9 h)Croft Crack, 5.12b
Chay Desa Tsay: a)Sport route, 5.10/11? b)As the Wind Cries, 5.11- X c)Fifty Grit, 5.11 A1 d)Frosted Flakes, 5.7 R e)Death Lost, 5.9 f)5.11. SA, g)MCy, 1996 Route h)5.10+ TR i)Hall of the Age of Man, 5.10- R j)Devoid, 5.10- R k)Devoid Var.? l)OW Route? m)D & B, 5.8
Bastion Towers a)Good zzzzzzz's, 5.11 b)Tunnel of Time, 5.9+ c)Chimney, 5.7 R/X d)Simply Treemendjous, 5.11b e)The Maw, 5.11b f)Winter of Our Discontent, 5.10+ g)Winter of Our Discontent var., 5.7. h)Forest Lawn, 5.9 i)Pair-A-Grins var. of Forest Lawn, 5.10 j)Jive Chimney, 5.10- k)Jive Chimney var. l)Hiker's Route, 5.8. m)Bum Crack, 5.9+. n)Route ABC, 5.11+ or 5.12a/b. |  FLAG |
By Larry Nov 5, 2009
| Now I know some ratings, at least.
Paul lists Good Zzzzzs as 5.8, not 5.11, and says it's the easiest way to the top.
(The presence of that route on MP clued me in that there was more to Rockfellow than Kerry told. Though I had heard criticisms of the book as incomplete long ago.)
Looks like there's adventure aplenty. |  FLAG |
By Geir Hundal From Tucson, AZ Nov 5, 2009
| wow, rick, that's awesome! glad to see there's some long-standing 5.12 trad in the stronghold, too. i'll be in touch as i'm curious about some of these routes. :) |  FLAG |
By Christian From Tucson, Az Nov 5, 2009
| Quoted for Posterity..RickD comes through again...Which one is the mythical 100 ft 5.7 handcrack someone told me about? Sounds like a good time..
Buzzard's Roost a)Buzz Kill, 5.8+ A1 b)Trail of My Fears, 5.9 c)Still Runnin', 5.10- d)Tour De Jour, 5.10 A0 e)Route RTMD, 5.8 f)5.8.
a)Twenty Little Black Dogs, 5.8. b)T.L.B. Dogs pod var.(5.9 c)Southwest Chimney Route, 5.7 d)The Longest Yard, 5. e)Thousand Clowns, 5.9 f)Thousand Clowns Var., 5.10 g)Laughing Boy, 5.8 on Bastion Towers somewhere h)Southeast Chimney Route, 5.6? i)Just Nuances, 5.8
end dome a)Journey From Darkness, 5.11+
rockfellow a)The Dromedary, 5.10 b)Upper Terrace, 5.10 c)5.11? SA, 1998/9 d)Over Easy, 5.10- A1 e)Over Easy Variation (A-D f)Pitch Black, 5.10 g)bolted slab, 5.10 h)5.11c i)Jabberwocky, 5.12 j)Abracadaver, 5.11 k)Knead-Me, 5.9 A.0 l)Sport Route, 5.11 m)Lumpy Unmentionables, 5.11- R n)Coming To Grips Var, 5.11 o)Coming to Grips, 5.11 p)Sensory Desuetude, 5.10+ R q)OW/Fistcrack Route, 5.10+? r)The Long Strange Trip, 5.11a s)Hex Chimney, 5.5 t)Falcon and the Snowjob, 5.7 w)Labyrinth 5.9
On Lost Tower: a)Half Ass, 5.9 b)5.10+/5.11-. SA c)Hello There Corner, 5.9+/5.10-. d)Regular Route, 5.6. e)Head Keeper, 5.8. f)White Lines Direct, 5.9, or 5.10. g)White Lines, 5.9 h)Croft Crack, 5.12b
Chay Desa Tsay: a)Sport route, 5.10/11? b)As the Wind Cries, 5.11- X c)Fifty Grit, 5.11 A1 d)Frosted Flakes, 5.7 R e)Death Lost, 5.9 f)5.11. SA, g)MCy, 1996 Route h)5.10+ TR i)Hall of the Age of Man, 5.10- R j)Devoid, 5.10- R k)Devoid Var.? l)OW Route? m)D & B, 5.8
Bastion Towers a)Good zzzzzzz's, 5.11 b)Tunnel of Time, 5.9+ c)Chimney, 5.7 R/X d)Simply Treemendjous, 5.11b e)The Maw, 5.11b f)Winter of Our Discontent, 5.10+ g)Winter of Our Discontent var., 5.7. h)Forest Lawn, 5.9 i)Pair-A-Grins var. of Forest Lawn, 5.10 j)Jive Chimney, 5.10- k)Jive Chimney var. l)Hiker's Route, 5.8. m)Bum Crack, 5.9+. n)Route ABC, 5.11+ or 5.12a/b.
|  FLAG |
By Larry Nov 17, 2009
| Here's a photo of the west/southwest side of the Rockfellows I took last week.
One little mystery is solved, by examining the first edition of Kerry's book. "Journey from Darkness 5.12-" is described at the top of page 228 of the second (1997) edition. The name and rating were omitted.
BUT I was looking around the Bastion Tower area. I found what must be "Over Easy" according to page 237 of the second edition. I identified it by the bolt in a groove above the chockstones. This is a 3/8" bolt with a Leeper hanger.
I noticed that the description of "Over Easy" in the first edition is completely different from the description in the second edition.*
Does anyone know what this route might be? It has a bolt ladder (aid), but the later description has this ladder on the second pitch, not the fourth.
I've been in touch with DB and RR, but neither of them can remember very many details. (I do know roughly where "Labyrinth" goes now.)
I would also like to mention that I got my start at the Stronghold on a Bob Kerry wild goose chase. In 1993, I had just arrived in Tucson and didn't know anyone. I went to solo "Interiors." Kerry (in his first edition) said it was between End Pinnacle and Chay Desa Tsay.
It's between Chay Desa Tsay and the main Rockfellow.
The result was a possible first ascent to the col between EP and CDT. I also downclimbed the route, in my hiking shoes (5.8, I figured).
* Over Easy begins roughly 200 or 300 feet to the left of Knead Me and is also on the north face of Rockfellow Dome. (1) A few difficult face moves up and slightly right allow you to reach a chimney. Climb up and right to a belay stance at some trees; (2) 5.10 From the stance, step right and climb very difficult rock up into a shallow chimney. Now climb up until possible to work up a flake into a belay alcove on the right; (3) Chimney out of the alcove and work up and slightly left on face holds. Belay at two bolts in a large diagonal crack.; (4) 5.9, A1 Aid climb a short bolt ladder, then climb free up and left in the diagonal crack turns sharply right (sic); (5) From the stance traverse straight right, then climb up flakes past a bolt to the summit area. (DB, GH & MWh, 1973) |  FLAG |
By Bobby Hanson From Salt Lake City, UT Nov 17, 2009
| Christian wrote: ...Which one is the mythical 100 ft 5.7 handcrack someone told me about? Sounds like a good time.. Bump. Anyone know about this? |  FLAG |
By Larry Nov 17, 2009
| Probably depends on the size of your hands ;-) |  FLAG |
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