By Daryl Allan From Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 6, 2008
| Hi all, Just looking for some advice on what size range (and quantity) of slings is prudent to have for chicken heads. I see lots of beta that state to bring slings for this but I haven't yet done these. Also, i lean more towards getting the 1" tube and inside-out knotting them to my desired length. Does the 1" tube work okay for heads or should i plan on picking up some sewn 3/4" slings?
Thanks!! Daryl |  |
By Justin Dansby From GA Apr 6, 2008
| I typically use the sewn runners with slipknot. I sometimes use dyneema but have recently heard a rumor that it isn't good to use dyneema because it doesn't stretch. I guess that puts more pressure on the chicken head potentially making it break? Anyone know about this? |  |
By Daryl Allan From Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 7, 2008
| Thanks for the feedback on this. So would 1" sling be too thick? I don't have much of the smaller sewn slings so i'm trying to figure out if i should go pick some up. Please forgive the ignorance but what is a standard - length runner? I have a few 60cm (23") bd runners, is this what is considered standard length? Seems like you would need some long enough to give a good 6-8" (min) tail past the slipknot; enough to be weighted with pro if needed. |  |
By caughtinside From Point Richmond, CA Apr 7, 2008
| Daryl Allan wrote: Thanks for the feedback on this. So would 1" sling be too thick? I don't have much of the smaller sewn slings so i'm trying to figure out if i should go pick some up. Please forgive the ignorance but what is a standard - length runner? I have a few 60cm (23") bd runners, is this what is considered standard length? Seems like you would need some long enough to give a good 6-8" (min) tail past the slipknot; enough to be weighted with pro if needed.
yes, the 60cm/24" runners are 'standard length.' if it's not long enough after you sling it, you can extend it with another sling.
1" webbing should work for most large chickenheads. However, it might be too fat to really seat well on smaller chickenheads, where 9/16ths would be better.
I have an assortment of dyneema and dynex runners, and I typically use them on small chickenheads with a slipknot. |  |
By Greg DeMatteo From Flagstaff, Az Apr 7, 2008
| Justin Dansby wrote: I typically use the sewn runners with slipknot. I sometimes use dyneema but have recently heard a rumor that it isn't good to use dyneema because it doesn't stretch. I guess that puts more pressure on the chicken head potentially making it break? Anyone know about this?
That's true but the reality is that the amount of stretch you get in a 24" runner is pretty small. All the real stretch is going to come from your rope and in comparison I'd be willing to bet the stretch in your runner is going to be negligible. I'd be more worried about making sure the sling actually stays on the chicken head so your rope can do its job. If this was really an issue we'd not be using spectra under ANY circumstance, since the same kind of forces would apply to your placed gear as well as a chicken head.
Where that really makes a difference is if you are ONLY using the material and no rope, like with a daisy chain. That's why people don't use spectra daisies. |  |
By Jim Amidon Apr 7, 2008
| Hey Daryl, the only way to figure out what works on chicken heads is to go out and get on a route and place some webbing on the ones you think will hold a a fall |  |
By Daryl Allan From Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 8, 2008
| Jim Amidon wrote: ...get on a route and place some webbing on the ones you think will hold a a fall You know... as obvious as that may sound, you're very right and stated exactly what i've been thinking here. I'm just like you all though; when i'm not climbing, i tend to be sitting here thinking about it.
I can't wait to get on something with chickens and give it a go. I've never done anything like that and to be honest, the first time i saw a picture of it, i thought "what the ppphhh...??".
Thanks for all the input on this, guys. I'll be out there Friday climbing and Saturday with my daughter walking around. See you all there... i won't know who's who but *i'll be there* ;). |  |
By Hampton Uzzelle From Tucson, Arizona Apr 8, 2008
| Hi Daryl, Seeing that you are from Sierra Vista, I would guess that we climb in some of the same areas. I prefer the narrower runners in a double shoulder length for two reasons. One, some of the heads around here are huge and the extra length is helpful and two, some of the heads don't have great lips on them and the extra length keeps the friction of the rope running through the biner from lifting the runner off the head.
You can buy sewn nylon, spectra or Dyneema runners in this length or you can just buy some 9/16" supertape at a climbing shop and make your own with a water knot. The advantage of tying your own that it's cheap and therefore you don't sweat it if you get to a a rap station full of worthless tat and need to re-rig it. I think a double runner is 48"- you'll need to buy a little extra because the knot will take up about 6-8 inches including the tails. Make sure your tails are long enough and weight your slings to cinch the knot. |  |
By rickd Apr 8, 2008
| useless drivel.
9/16" or 11/16" x 5' = shoulder length runner good for the thinnest. Most chickenheads in the stonghold have excellent lips and can take 1" tubular as well.
Go do the 4 star first pitch of "Great Gig in the Sky" (FA Grossman, Ladin). A 5.10 version of What's My Line w/ nearly all chickenhead (Bill Lefevre used 9, DDC used 4). 1" work fine. |  |
By Brian in SLC From Salt Lake City, UT Apr 8, 2008
| I like the thinner stuff myself, just 'cause its easier to carry more and sometimes it seems to work better. Wider is nice for some stuff too, especially if the sling is held on by friction (and sometimes I'll hang a cam from it to keep it in place).
I use the Mammut 8mm slings, along with BW climb spec 9/16" tied slings. Standard length for me is something that will fit over my shoulder, ie, shoulder length.
Also like a couple double length slings too.
As well as a couple of "rabbit runners" (BW sling, pre-sewn).
Part of an anchor on Wasteland in Cochise.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC |  |
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