By Bob Broilo
From Socorro, NM
Dec 11, 2007
| Just ridiculous. The only reason an area might be kept secret is access issues, and even then that can end up backfiring on you. Being open and upfront with the climbing community and land managers can help create helpful allies on the access front.
It's obvious that they don't want the area a secret, they just want to create buzz about it. |  |
By Flash Gordon
Dec 17, 2007
| I've been looking at photos for the "shambhala" boulders, the Glorieta boulders, the Powerline boulders, and all of these other secret areas outside of Santa Fe for around 2.5 years. When is the love going to happen? Like it is going to stop anyone from flying past on their way to Hueco...
The Apache Canyon stuff is very fun, but limiting... I would love to find some more of this great stuff for those willing to share | |
By Williampenner
Dec 18, 2007
| Flash Gordon wrote: The Apache Canyon stuff is very fun, but limiting... I would love to find some more of this great stuff for those willing to share
Apache Canyon is great but small as you say. I still think the severely overhung arete to the left and slightly uphill as you reach the first area is one of the best problems in the state. Excellent mantel for a finish. The long traverse further upstream is also great. There is more of that rock out there in the Glorieta area it just tends to be sharper, chossier, and less water polished. One other small, kinda fun spot is right along the road from Glorieta to Pecos (on the left side heading to Pecos) near a building owned by the NPS. The rock is soft with limited appeal unless you like sand and breaking holds as I do.
The gold standard for the sharp/chossy combo has to be the cluster of boulders on a small hill you can see to the east from I-25 as you approach the Villanueva exit. Such a disappointing and painful bunch of rocks. | |
By carlos
From Taos, NM
Dec 23, 2007
| Well first off it is near Roy, NM. Secondly, I don't know exactly where, but I am looking. I don't have a problem with them keeping an area a secret, but putting out a big story about it, telling people the access is perfect, yet still refusing to give directions is complete shit. I can't wait to climb there, and I can't wait to get directions. Good luck all. | |
By Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Dec 24, 2007
| Perhaps its somewhere in this canyon.
Its about 5 miles west of Roy, NM. | |
By carlos
From Taos, NM
Feb 16, 2008
| Hey Mono, I just wanted to say thanks for the beta. For as good as it seems and sounds, there is only a few concentrated areas, at least that I have found so far, including those on climbing.com. Its definitely nothing compared to Joe's, but the rock is good, and there are some really great lines. If anyone wants more specific beta, e-mail me and I'd be happy to help. | |
By Paul Davidson
Apr 2, 2008
| Bob has spent more than a little time up around WagonMound.
sorry Guillermo | |
By Williampenner
Apr 2, 2008
| Hey Paul, good to hear from you. I saw you in the gym tonight but did not get a chance to say howdy.
It is great that Bob spent some time up in northeast New Mexico. I would have been surprised if he had not because it has lots of sandstone. He is an inspiration to me and I always feel happy to walk in his footsteps periodically. Someday maybe you can introduce us--I have a ton of questions for him about the places he has been. Have you been out to that area with Bob?
One of the most obscure areas I climbed at that I bet he has not visited is at Clayton Lake State Park. Solid Dakota but only three boulders big enough to climb on. Good enough to keep me happy while doing archeology out in that part of our fair state.
Too many places to go and not enough time seems to be my problem these days. I hope you are getting out into the mountains and not working too much. Let's get up into the Sandias this summer.
Hasta Guillermo. | |
By Bob Broilo
From Socorro, NM
Apr 3, 2008
| Williampenner wrote: Too many places to go and not enough time seems to be my problem these days.
Word to that. When we make it out the discussion over Sofia's burritos is what new area to work on.
I'm not going to make it up this weekend, my wife has stuff for me to do and I'm getting visitors from Colorado who want to climb at Box/Monster Island. | |
By Williampenner
Apr 3, 2008
| Bob Broilo wrote: Word to that. When we make it out the discussion over Sofia's burritos is what new area to work on. I'm not going to make it up this weekend, my wife has stuff for me to do and I'm getting visitors from Colorado who want to climb at Box/Monster Island.
Too bad. Come up again sometime and get the full treatment although I realize that might not be until next season.
I still need to make it out to Monster Island, maybe someday I'll try and wrangle a tour.
Guillermo. | |
By Bob Broilo
From Socorro, NM
Apr 3, 2008
| Williampenner wrote: Too bad. Come up again sometime and get the full treatment although I realize that might not be until next season.
Yes, I want to go back but it's prolly getting hot there. Perhaps I could bring up the night mission stuff for a mid-summer sesh.
Williampenner wrote: I still need to make it out to Monster Island, maybe someday I'll try and wrangle a tour.
No problem, a very small area but very sweet. Season is just starting up there at 8400' but it's quite a drive for you. Some nice camping spots. | |
By Paul Davidson
Apr 3, 2008
| Hey Guillermo...
Didn't notice you last night...
Hadn't been there in almost 6 months so it was
discouraging and I was just trying to not get hurt ;-)
I'll drag Bob back in there one of these days.
As for Clayton, I don't know but there was a period of time
where he (and I a bit) were actively searching out Dakota
in the state. He had a large geologic map and was traveling
the state looking for that strata.
No, I never made it into those Canyons up around Wagon Mound. | |
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