By the way, the problem I fell on in Little Cottonwood Canyon UT is called "Double Dyno V2" in the Cabbage Patch area. If your right foot is on the lump hold to the right when making the catch on the huge sloper it only felt V0+, If you dyno from the right hold to the left hold, paste your feet on the flat wall and dyno up both hands it felt like a V2. A photo shown in rockclimbing.com is the V0+ version even though they are calling it V2. Next time I am bringing 12 pads and 14 spotters!!!! Hopefully that will be enough!

hobbling "where are those percocets" happily....marty

Wow! I really want to get a Marty-k Shirt! that is awesome. Bolting new routes all over Arizona, that is where you have ben all summer?!?!?! And I thought you were cutting pages out of magazines for autographs at the show!

I will definately be one of the 14 spotters. lets hit the V2's fresh, what do you think?

Robert

Marty's stitches are out. Took his first shower yesterday...quite a difficult chore but well worth it. Scar is looking very good. Too bad the inside can't heal as quickly as the outside.

Marty's been feeding the kids, cleaning the kitchen, vacuuming the house all in his wheelchair with the help of Mr.Tong. Can't keep a good man down. Still can't drive though...so errand help is accepted.

Marty's boo-boo Submitted By: Sandy Draus on Aug 18, 2009

Marty, Simona and I are looking at the the clean work that the doctor did! wow, what a clean line! I would give it five stars! there is no break in the continuity or anything. Hopefully that means smooth movement to come!

The Olsons

Started physical therapy at Jeremys doctors location. Really cool office and fun doctor! This should be fun as long as I survive the pain he is dishing out. Jeremy brought his camera along to show that the PRG Lead Gorilla is not so tough anymore. Thanks Jeremy! I was able to lift my leg 4" off of the floor. It was a total accomplishment for me. But of course the doctor wanted 99 more reps......damn! Jeremy and Amber practically carried me out on a stretcher after that first visit. Bring on the pain!!! I should be back to 5.12 by friday at this rate!!! The doctors keep saying 3 months but I am trying my best to beat that time.

All is awesome! Rock on! Marty

We finally got the disc with Marty's x-rays so here are a couple views. Wow!! He's got some hardward in there!!

hip Submitted By: Sandy Draus on Sep 5, 2009

hip 2 Submitted By: Sandy Draus on Sep 5, 2009

leg Submitted By: Sandy Draus on Sep 5, 2009

True Value Hardware, wow !

HOly Cow! I was there, and i never imagined it would look like that. Marty have you thouht about being the new maskot for fixe or ushba or any other hardware company? They think they've got pins!?!?!

You rock man, keep up the good work!

That's what 6 hours of reconstructive surgery can do for you!!

Oughta be a ton of fun getting through the metal detector at the airport. (yeah, I know... you get some sort of card telling them you're part bionic dude now).

Nice aid rack! Curious why the balls of steel didn't show up in the x-ray though! Get well.

I call dibs on Marty's leg when he bites the dust (hopefully not for a long time). With all that metal I should be able to forge up something really nice.

Dief the Blacksmith

Glad that you are healing Marty and it is great that you have such a good network of friends here at Mountain Project, I don't know you but just finished reading about your accident and wanted to wish you well in your recovery.

I have hundreds of pounds of old Climbing, Mountain, and Rock and Ice Magazines to donate to the Marty Karabin museum - enough to fill an ordinary car trunk. It is not cost effective to try and ship these to Marty. If anyone is driving from the San Diego, Ca. (Escondido) to Phoenix (or nearby) between now and early October, I know Marty would appreciate all of those magazines. After all, he needs something to do as he heals. Send me a message if you think we can figure out a way to get these magazines from my house to Marty's.

Randy Leavitt

Sounds like a worthy cause and a good drive. Might have to check my schedule.

MC

I'll throw in some gas money!

Without question Leav, I can make that a priority this month while traveling to the Del Mar Area. Contact me via email. It's the least I can do. Unbeknownst to MK, he has made it directly or indirectly possible for me to climb in and around the phx area since I was first brought here as a child.

Does anyone know when the PRG benefit for Marty will be? I was told in August that it would be in September, sometime after Labor Day, but that an exact date was not set. Thanks!

Marty doing good with physical therapy...very painful...the mind is willing but the flesh has it's own ideas.
So here he is, trying to cross his legs...0W0W0W0W0W0W0W0W0W0!!!!!!

WOW Marty what a story, I am so sorry to hear about your hospital stay. I am very glad you were not injured worse. How is the healing coming along? I am happy to hear the climbing community is pulling together for you, I wish I could do more to help out, best wishes and I will definately be sending you positive healing energy!
-Neo

Is there another fundraiser event? Deif?

Linda

Randy,

The magazines have been received!!! Thank you so very much for not wanting them any more! I kept about 60 of them and the rest went to Robert for his future museum. He presently is debating keeping the mags pristine, or chopping all of the Leavitt pictures out of the mags for a massive signature session at the next OR show. Watch out!
Thanks also for the Leavitt schwag items. Hope your new smaller home gives you great future memories.
Rock on! Marty

GOOD LUCK with your recovery, and getting through the airports metal detectors.

THE HALF WAY REPORT
Well hopefully more than half way to climbing again I hope. For you future peoples planning on having a femur break, or not planning on having a femur break, here is what I was doing in the first two months:
It is nice to have family and friends help out especially at the beginning. For the first week it is pretty much hospital stuff. I suggest get out of the hospital as soon as you can. The surgery is cheap compared to the charge for sitting in the hospital bed. Two weeks after the break I was still pretty much useless. The broken leg was constantly filling up with fluids "ballooning up" if I was not laying down for a while in bed for every two hours. I wanted to get stuff done around the house but the leg pretty much commanded the day. The pain is constant! Not the surgical pain, but the stressed out tendons doing all of the work for the non active muscles. Any time I move or readjust the legs position I get ready for that groin tendon to say hello. The pain is so constant it has become comical and makes me laugh every time it hurts. My first doctor visit was 18 days after the surgery and my stitches were removed. I was given a prescription to start Physical Therapy, and a prescription for more pain pills. Now I only take the pain pills before I go to therapy. Therapy started 19 days after the surgery and I am amazed at how strong my leg actually was. I was babying the leg through the pain, and the Physical Therapist wasted no time bending my leg around past the point of my personal fear and pain. On my first visit to the therapist I felt I needed a stretcher to get me back to my ride home. I am going to therapy three times a week and I enjoy it in a sadistic way I guess. "How are you doing? Get on the table, owie, owie, owie, damn! ouch, okay you are done for the day..........heres the money..........see you tomorrow." Interesting process paying for pain, but I like the results! The hardest part of therapy is getting from home to doctor and back to home. Lots of friends are involved in this process since I am restricted from personally driving. Grocery shopping is an interesting mission, as well as getting the trash can to the curb on trash day.
After surgery right away I was able to move the bottom portion of my leg. Anything from my knee to my foot was working great, but my muscles above the knee were not responding and still are not. 60 days after the surgery, laying down flat on my back with a straight leg I was finally able to lift my leg off of the table...once. One good 5.12 grunt and to my amazement it was lifted. It is a great feeling mentally to see my leg finally responding.
At my second doctors visit 45 days after the surgery, was given the okay to allow my bad leg to apply 50 lbs pressure to my foot. At the two month mark I returned the wheel chair. The wheel chair is a fantastic tool since it still allows you to use all of your limbs for chores around the house. I am using the walker so now I have no limbs free to carry stuff. A whole new set of rules were just thrown at me. For example: Try to get a cup of coffee from point A to point B using a walker. It becomes a great challenge! Doing anything in a standing position is tough since I am always standing on my good leg where now it is cramping up more and more. So while I am strengthening the broken leg, I am also gaining tendonitis in the good leg. FUN! The greatest thing about the 45 day mark was that I was finally able to turn to sleep on my side.
I know that I am over the half way point and I can see the light and I am ready to climb again! For now I am concentrating on stretching, proper walking technique, preparing for the crutches, and keeping my focus on walking again. I am lucky to have so many home projects to do that it has kept me mentally busy and has made the time fly by so far. My cat and chinchilla have kept me good company besides my kids and friends. This week I go to 90lbs pressure on the foot, finish up my new guide to Northern Devils Canyon, and clean the chinchilla cage. Hope you guys are having fun out there!

Rock on! Hoping to walk soon! Marty

Marty, my wife gets her rod out in 2 months. She is freakin thrilled. Last weekend we made 3 BASE jumps in Moab and the weekend before, she ran the Boulder Half-Marathon. She is also in the new "Stone Nudes" calender, femur scars and all. Maybe the last part was TMI, but fuckit. We are talking femurs here, not bowling. Stay strong dude, this gets better until it's just a goofy story. Promise!

XOXO,
Hankster