By kirra May 8, 2008
| got it -thanks Christian..!
Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: - stupid geese. But, the ones that come to our office do so because unlike the ones who nest in the wild, they don't have to deal with many predators.
sounds like a pretty 'smart' solution for geese :)~ stupid humans... overfishing, overpopulating, overproducing toxic waste and destroying their own backyard ~ pfffttt (sorry for the off-comment need for repose continuance) |  |
By manuel rangel From tempe, az May 8, 2008
| Christian, "in 2005" refers to a citation given a guide that placed bolts on forest lands; the judge dropped the charges without setting a dangerous precedent. Your fact refers to a climber placing bolts on forest land. I and many others do that often. It does not pertain to the arbitrary bird closures of a climbing area.
Climbers are constantly encroaching into the lands populated by animals. We should be good stewards and respect all life. I like the partial closures idea. A very public and easily monitored area, such as granite mtn in Prescott would help to resolve this issue. I have made comments to that effect and have had no response from the managers of our public lands.
As far as losing Zonerland, it was Fred (a retiree semi-permanently camped nearby) that began the public outcry leading to the bolting ban. In retrospect, we could have done a better job of being inconspicuous and subtle. It became the place to bolt. Remember though that sport was beginning to take off and people came from all over to bolt. It was definitely not treated as a wilderness area and we were wrong. Then everyone went to Queen Creek and was happy. |  |
By Phil Persson From Tucson, Arizona May 8, 2008
| Whoah guys, I aplogize wholeheartedly for stirring up a 'can of worms' so tyo speak, I guess I was just kinda careless in posting that, didn't really think anybody read those posts or it would have much effect. In actuality we did NOT know about the Falcon closures before we climbed, I thought the dates were later on in the spring, and yes it was stupid to advertise we climbed there, I guess my personal feelings regarding the impact climbers have on raptor nesting interfered with common sense there a bit. I wasn't really thinking about the effects on the larger climbing community in terms of restricting access to such places in the future. You guys are right, regardless of the science/proof behind the bans, we should respect them as such and not climb while they are in effect. Point well taken. Again, sorry guys!! I guess I'm just kind of a dumb kid haha... Best Regards, Phil. |  |
By bio From mesa, az May 8, 2008
| You're awesome Phil, humility is more refreshing than beer, and has much fewer calories. |  |
By kirra May 8, 2008
| Nice Phil |  |
By Not So Famous Old Dude From Denver, CO May 8, 2008
| Okay, okay, I guess I was out of line, too. I am sorry that....uh what the hell am I saying?????
NO MORE CLOSURES!!!! |  |
By Healyje May 8, 2008
| Phil, good post, clear words.
With regard to this part though,
Phil Persson wrote: ...regardless of the science/proof behind the bans, we should respect them as such...
Because the ongoing development of wind farms in WA preoccupies the Washington Dept. of Fish and Wildlife(WDFW) Raptor biologists, of late I have been the primary Peregrine monitor at Beacon Rock, our crag outside of Portland, which gets shut down completely from 2/1 - 7/15 every year. In that capacity I work in cooperation with the WDFW raptor biologists and have for the past four seasons. My own background is more in genetics, microbiology, and horticulture - but I've worked pretty hard to get up to speed on the Raptor biology and science behind the closure. I just want to say that there is plenty of science and 'proof' behind the closures. In the end, for me, they are simply a matter of respect for one of the burliest creatures on Earth, and one which is indigenous to our vertical realm.
That said, I also want to say that no one - and I mean no one - is more put out by the closure than I am, and no one wants Beacon Rock open for every possible day more than I do. This is year 34 of climbing for me - at this point ever day counts going forward - and I have unfinished FA's that I can't get back to until we re-open. That's why I do the monitoring, to enable the possibility of early opens each year; that, and I can't imagine climbing at Beacon without the Falcons after they do fledge, they are every bit a part of the climbing there.
Below is a posting I did just about a year ago on another forum in response to a post about the Peregrine closure at Beacon Rock which commented the Peregrine population is 'booming'. You might find it interesting (or not).
=========================================================================
At about roughly 1.5 chicks per nesting pair, "booming" would be descriptively over the top, but the North American recovery program has been having steady successes. The results from the first nationwide monitoring effort to measure the peregrine falcon's recovery in 2006 put the number of nesting pairs in North America at 3,005. This includes estimates of 400 pairs in Canada, 170 pairs in Mexico, approximately 1,000 pairs in Alaska, and the rest (1,435 pairs) distributed among 40 of the lower 48 states. For example, last year in Ohio, 18 nesting pairs of peregrine falcons resulted in the successful hatching and fledging of a record 57 young falcons (with an anticipated loss rate of 65% in the first year).
This is a fairly typical recovery chart (not from Ohio); note that a lot of chicks doesn't necessarily translate into a lot of nesting pairs due to a fairly high natural mortality rate of young birds (Great Horned Owls, Coyotes, cars, etc.). And also be aware the stability of the overall population is more a function of adult mortality (we lost a female this year on rte. 14 just west of Beacon) and that the number of nesting pairs and successful nests rises only incrementally regardless of the number of chicks:
The estimated historic North American numbers are approximately 4-4,500 pairs so we are roughly 3/4's of the way there and there will be three more post-delisting surveys in 2009, 2012, and 2015. At some point along that time line it is possible some state protections will be lifted - but, even that doesn't necessarily mean individual historic nest sites won't still be protected under some form of state and federal laws or rules. That's because each known-productive, historic [anchor] nest site (like Beacon, Midnight, etc.) only serves a single nesting pair, are a one shot deal each year, and are key in the overall recovery effort. It would be different if sites hosted multiple pairs, but that's just not how they are.
Keep in mind this historic recovery is one of the iconic successes of the overall environmental movement from the '70s and has been hard fought for thirty years by small groups of dedicated individuals who will have forty years into it before they are done. This is their legacy and is not all that different than our collective forty year legacy of routes on El Cap or elsewhere. And we are not talking pigeon-like numbers here, these are still relatively spartan numbers due to the size of the ranges of individual pairs. We should very much appreciate what has been accomplished by this dedicated group of folks. These are the fastest, burliest birds alive and fellow cliff-dwellers - if we can't share the vertical realm with them it says volumes about how consumptive, self-centered, and jaded we've become.
Anyway, these are the best facts available, and as far as I'm concerned, Beacon wouldn't be Beacon - or half as alive - without the Peregrines...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here's some recovery history and stats from the late '90s that contributed to the Federal ESA delisting... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALASKA: Surveys conducted between 1966 and 1998 along the upper Yukon River demonstrated increases in the number of occupied nesting territories from a low of 11 known pairs in 1973 to 46 pairs in 1998. Similarly, along the upper Tanana River, the number of occupied nesting territories increased from 2 in 1975 to 33 in 1998. The recovery objective of 28 occupied nesting territories in the two study areas was first achieved in 1988, with 23 nesting territories on the Yukon River and 12 on the Tanana River.
PACIFIC STATES: By 1976, no American peregrine falcons were found at 14 historical nest sites in Washington. Oregon had also lost most of its peregrine falcons and only 1 or 2 pairs remained on the California coast. Surveys conducted from 1991 to 1998 indicated a steadily increasing number of American peregrine falcon pairs breeding in Washington, Oregon, and Nevada. Known pairs in Washington increased from 17 to 45 and in Oregon from 23 to 51. The number of American peregrine falcons in California increased from an estimated low of 5 to 10 breeding pairs in the early 1970s to a minimum of 167 occupied sites in 1998. The increase in California was concurrent with the restriction of DDT and included the release of over 750 American peregrine falcons through 1997.
ROCKY MOUNTAINS/SOUTHWEST: The Rocky Mountain/Southwest population of the American peregrine falcon has made a profound comeback since the late 1970s when surveys showed no occupied nest sites in Idaho, Montana, or Wyoming and only a few pairs in Colorado, New Mexico, and the Colorado Plateau, including parts of southern Utah and Arizona. Surveys conducted from 1991 through 1998 indicated that the number of American peregrine falcon pairs in the Rocky Mountain/Southwest area has steadily increased. In 1991, there were 367 known pairs; in 1998 the number of pairs increased to 535.
EASTERN STATES: The eastern peregrine population has a unique history and complex status under the Act. Peregrine falcons were extirpated in the eastern United States and southeastern Canada by the mid-1960s. Releases of young captive bred peregrines have reestablished populations throughout much of their former range in the east. In 1998, there were a total of 193 pairs counted in five designated eastern State recovery units. The number of territorial pairs recorded in the eastern peregrine falcon recovery area increased an average of 10% annually between 1992 and 1998. Equally important, the productivity of these pairs during the same 7-year period averaged 1.5 young per pair, demonstrating sustained successful nesting. |  |
By Eyes Of Green From Phoenix, AZ May 8, 2008
| I agree with Greg and say don't delete.
Since when does the strategy of sweeping things under the rug really progress human communication, open new doors, or help different sides understand each other better or come to a better consensus? Never, in my experience....and you can see this doesn't work very well in action all over the world. |  |
By Phil Persson From Tucson, Arizona May 8, 2008
| HealyJe: Thank you for the insight into the reasoning behind the raptor/falcon closures in climbing areas; I guess I underestimated how fragile and easily disturbed their nests and habitat are. While I may not agree with the closures personally, I do agree that these are amazing creatures and we should make an effort to share the rock with them. You seem to know quite a bit on this subject, it was interesting reading a climber's perspective on this. Thanks for the time to clarify this, I appreciate it.
As for anyone else I've offended, I'm sorry!! Don't know what else to say. Everyone slip's up occasionally I guess. And hey shouldn't we all be out climbing instead of lurking on mountainproject? This is a great website and I think all y'all are good people, but let's not get caught up in the details here so to speak. If I sounded kinda cynical or sarcastic when I responded to 'Eyes of Green''s initial post I apologize.... honestly I didn't mean any harm by it, I guess at the time after having climbed all day there and not seen a sign of a single raptor or falcon it seemed kinda silly, plus we didn't even know it was closed. Let's all get back out climbing and on with life!! :) Best Regards, Phil. |  |
By manuel rangel From tempe, az May 8, 2008
| Great info Helyje, but what is the scientific proof that climbers nearby will cause the falcons to diminish? I keep hearing the same words almost exactly that a falcon will knock their eggs out of the nest or something like that if a human is nearby. I understand their recovery has taken a lot of work, but where is the proof that my walking or climbing nearby will destroy this wonderful work? |  |
By Eric Rhicard May 8, 2008
| First let me say that I have been a member of the Nature Conservancy, Audubon Society, Ducks Unlimited and a few other great organizations.
These closures are BS. I Hate to beat a dead bird but the birds have come back despite the increased number of climbers. The FS people in Arizona just keep having closures despite the fact that the population is so large that falconers are allowed to get permits to remove chicks from nests to use in their hobby/sport.
Healyje you may know of some studies and you wrote it so I believe you, but down here they have no studies that I know of or that they can produce when discussing the issue. So for them to have closures with no science to support it bugs me.
I do not know of any studies that prove climbers cause nest failures. I do know that DDT was the cause of the birds demise and we don't use it anymore. Gotta get my rant out. Wish we could sue them or something.
Even so Phil has the message and will act more responsibly in the future so it is all good. |  |
By Healyje May 9, 2008
| Eric Rhicard wrote: First let me say that I have been a member of the Nature Conservancy, Audubon Society, Ducks Unlimited and a few other great organizations. These closures are BS. I Hate to beat a dead bird but the birds have come back despite the increased number of climbers.
Eric, you got that last part right - they've been coming back inspite of climbers, but only due to the dedicated efforts of a legion of folks as dedicated to every successful eyrie as we are to every FA. And they are not "back" yet - they are only 3/4's of the way back.
Eric Rhicard wrote: The FS people in Arizona just keep having closures despite the fact that the population is so large that falconers are allowed to get permits to remove chicks from nests to use in their hobby/sport.
The 11 western states are all subject to the pressures and influnces of hunting groups, and many of them are hunter friendly. North American Falconers (NAFA) are both well organized and have been relentless in their pursuit of reestablishing an annual 'take' of both chicks and migrant raptors throughout the West. However, there is virtually no need for any taking of wild raptors given the number of captive breeding programs around the country - all this will do is lenghten the time it takes to reestablish their historic numbers and ranges. I.e. it will simply lengthen the time their eyries need protection. And aside from the fact that Falconry is a fast growing sport in the US, there is no small question about how many of these birds will end up in the Middle East
Eric Rhicard wrote: Healyje you may know of some studies and you wrote it so I believe you, but down here they have no studies that I know of or that they can produce when discussing the issue. So for them to have closures with no science to support it bugs me. I do not know of any studies that prove climbers cause nest failures.
The 'science' all revolves around response provocation, basically what does it take to provoke an acknowledgement response out of a raptor. Then it's a matter of degree of response. Raptors are sensitive to human intervention and disturbance during nest selection, especially while on eggs, and when with chicks. They don't trundle eggs or young when disturbed - they abandon. They will abandon new eyries, will abandon eggs, and may abandon chicks - There is well documented evidence of all three behaviors. None of the research speaks specifically about "climbers" and none of it needs to.
Eric Rhicard wrote: I do know that DDT was the cause of the birds demise and we don't use it anymore. Gotta get my rant out. Wish we could sue them or something.
Yes, we don't and that's allowed the Peregrines to come a long way towards reclaiming their historic range and numbers. But remember, even then in the 2015-2020 timeframe we'll still only be talking less than 5,000 breeding pairs nationwide - they aren't pigeons. I don't blame folks for ranting - that's what I used to do before I got involved, educated myself, and actually spent some time around the Peregrines. The closures suck, but there are good reasons and rationales for them. And I'm surprised more climbers don't get involved cooperatively monitoring with state and federal raptor biologists rather than suffering static closure dates.
Again, no one wants rock open for climbing more than I do, it's what I do, and my rock is closed right now. But, I don't want it open at the expense of these raptors. And the nest up on "Big Ledge" at Beacon is a solid producer as eyries driving the recovery go so I'm willing to share. I'm involved so I can get Beacon Rock open for climbing at the earliest possible date. So far we've opened an average of three weeks early for the last three years because of climbers being involved. |  |
By Braxton Norwood From Tucson May 9, 2008
| Eyes Of Green wrote: Since when does the strategy of sweeping things under the rug really progress human communication, open new doors, or help different sides understand each other better or come to a better consensus? Never, in my experience....and you can see this doesn't work very well in action all over the world.
This isn't about ignoring things and hoping they go away, as 'sweeping something under the rug' implies. I meant delete these threads so that Forest Service employees, as well as their friends and family, who read them (which are visible to anyone and everyone, not just people with a mp.com account, by the way) aren't under the impression that crags closed for raptor nesting need more patrolling because arrogant climbers are ignoring the closure.
Eyes Of Green wrote: Since when does the strategy of sweeping things under the rug really progress human communication, open new doors, or help different sides understand each other better or come to a better consensus? Never, in my experience....and you can see this doesn't work very well in action all over the world.
I don't see how this thread has the slightest chance of resulting in any reduction in closure or improving discourse with the Forest/Parks Services. Rather, I think it has the potential to increase policing of closed crags as this thread sends a clear message that people are indeed climbing where they're not supposed to, which could easily translate to: areas closed for bird nesting need more patrolling.
Anyone can read this thread (which has a rather eye-catching title) without logging-in or creating an account. I know for a fact that AZ parks employees browse this site to get a feel for climbers' POV regarding certain issues (e.g. Tam O'Shanter). I wouldn't be surprised if FS employees do, too. |  |
By Daryl Allan From Sierra Vista, AZ May 9, 2008
| Okay - understood. However, here's food for thought based on your comment: Wouldn't, then, whoever is reading through this thread come to the conclusion that of the 12 (or so; i didn't actually count) people involved, only one was at fault. And... that *one* person at fault has learned [from this thread] the wrong he has done and has stated that he will be honoring the closures as a result.
I see both sides and feel fairly confident i have a solid understanding of the impact of leaving the thread as well as taking it down. I believe that the benefits of leaving outweigh any damages that may result. IOW, i would jump at the opportunity to get the word out that the [vast] majority of the climbing community are not only conscious and respecting of FS matters but also are a person base that is willing to assist & encourage others in following suit. |  |
By Greg Opland Administrator May 9, 2008
| Seems to me communications and sharing ideas is the beginning of understanding, not the end. I don't think I've personally read anything here I'd consider detrimental to climbers in the eyes of the FS. The primary deal is everyone piling on one climber for busting the ban (thanks for reconsidering, Phil. You handled the abuse well) with additional discussion concerning the bans, the birds, and how we all feel about it. Climbers have never been fans of the bans. Nothing new there, and maybe the FS will get a better view of what we're thinking.
From all the climbers I've talked to and read here, none of them wish to harm the birds in any way. I think most of us would just like to see a slightly less heavy hand in terms of the coverage of the bans and the possibility of lifting them if no nesting pairs appear on formations during the ban period. I think that would be an okay compromise with most climbers. |  |
By bio From mesa, az May 9, 2008
| Healyje, thank you. It's great to see someone with opinions backed by experience and information. You are a reasonable voice being both a dedicated climber and dedicated falcon enthusiast. I think the message here is that there is evidence that nesting sites are compromised by nearby human activity. You raised an important point, that the more they are disturbed the longer the recovery effort will take and the longer climbers will be faced by nesting restrictions. If we look in the long term we would be better served by supporting the restrictions and working cooperatively with involved agencies rather than applying a hush hush approach and doing whatever we want. S |  |
By Pete Hickman From Phoenix, az May 9, 2008
| I am going to Mt. Lemmon to climb this weekend and I have had to do some digging on the website to figure out which areas are closed. With Granite Mountain there is an access restriction very obviously posted on the Granite Mountain pages. Maybe if the Mount Lemmon areas which are restricted had the same obvious indications on each of the pages if would be more clear. Having never been to Mount Lemmon, my first destination was going to be the Fortress (which has no indication of access issues on the page) until I just happened to wander across a post which mentioned the closed area signs on some other page below many other posts, behind a "beware of leopard" sign. |  |
By phil broscovak From Boo-older, Co. May 9, 2008
| Many years ago I worked as an assistant range wildlife biologist in the Pacific Northwest. One of our primary duties was to locate and map Great Horned Owl nesting sites with the intent to secure sufficient un-logged area to keep the species viable. We did constant battle with the assistant chief ranger in charge of timber sales. His overtly proclaimed attitude was that "the lazy trees are just sitting on their stumps sapping nutrients from the soil". He was wrong and so is Not so famous old dude who's self indulgent attitude is that he should be able to climb anywhere anytime. Wrong, wrong, wrong! Old dude would have us believe that the birds can just go find another rock. Wrong, wrong, wrong! By extension he would probably believe that we should just go log it all since there are so many other trees out there. We are not talking about pigeons here but rather very sensitive and threatened species. Bother them enough and they will go away, permanently. The truth is there is a lot of rock out there without nesting sites and closures. Respect the closures and climb somewhere else. Educate yourself about the seriousness of these issues. Before it is too late. |  |
By Not So Famous Old Dude From Denver, CO May 9, 2008
| phil broscovak wrote: Many years ago I worked as an assistant range wildlife biologist in the Pacific Northwest. One of our primary duties was to locate and map Great Horned Owl nesting sites with the intent to secure sufficient un-logged area to keep the species viable. We did constant battle with the assistant chief ranger in charge of timber sales. His overtly proclaimed attitude was that "the lazy trees are just sitting on their stumps sapping nutrients from the soil". He was wrong and so is Not so famous old dude who's self indulgent attitude is that he should be able to climb anywhere anytime. Wrong, wrong, wrong! Old dude would have us believe that the birds can just go find another rock. Wrong, wrong, wrong! By extension he would probably believe that we should just go log it all since there are so many other trees out there. We are not talking about pigeons here but rather very sensitive and threatened species. Bother them enough and they will go away, permanently. The truth is there is a lot of rock out there without nesting sites and closures. Respect the closures and climb somewhere else. Educate yourself about the seriousness of these issues. Before it is too late.
First of all, let's get something straight here - I'm not advocating climbing in violation of closures. The closest I came to that was saying that a publicly announced protest climb would have political impact and that was better that just one-off violations if you are trying to make a statement against the closures. This puts the authorities on notice so they can get there when you do and then go through the customary formalities of an arrest or ticketing when you set foot on the route. You get your point out, hopefully get some attention, and engage in a wider argument.
But you folks that have been educated by biologists and their special interests need to understand that all education comes with some level of propaganda. I have been subjected to this in my professional and academic business education as well. The education and training you receive has a specific agenda attached to it. It is not open-minded, and rarely considers all the possibilities, especially if any of those possibilities contradict the goals of the teaching. The least balanced education comes from anything that is politically charged, such as the environment. All of us have been gradually educated to never question or dissent against anything that protects the environment or wildlife. Wake up people! You are being manipulated.
You believe in the closures and their necessity because that's what you want to believe and you defend it with research that is targeted to support just such a conclusion.
So, while I may respec these existing bans, I do not support future bans and whenever there is an opportunity for public comment on them I will register my disapproval.
For the record, I think all bans and controls on fixed anchors are all outrageous and uncalled for as well, and I always comment on that when these uncessesary "climbing management plans" come up for comment as well. |  |
By bio From mesa, az May 9, 2008
| Old dude, I know Phil's post probably triggered some anger in you. You love climbing and are protective of it. You must understand that other people feel just as strong about wildlife. The important thing is to try and set emotion aside and focus on a solution. Kids think that in a disagreement one person wins and the other loses. As adults we need to realize that solutions to multiple use issues require compromise for everyone to come out feeling like a winner. I know that human behaviors conflict with the natural world, I, and most biologist recognize that and are not advocating that we go back to living in caves. The directions environmental scientists would like to take is to maintain, as much as possible, the health of ecosystems we currently have. The reasons for this are not because animals and plants are more important than people, this is a common misconception. Yes poeple who like the wild do want to keep it pristine for personal reasons but that is not the most convincing reason. Humans are linked to the biosphere and each little piece of it we loose weakens it's stability and resistance to change. This is not propoganda it is science, it comes from the same scientific process that produces cell phones, space ships, and superlight metal alloys, just science applied to life. S |  |
By Jon Ruland From Tucson, AZ May 9, 2008
| Phil Persson wrote: Whoah guys, I aplogize wholeheartedly for stirring up a 'can of worms' so tyo speak...
Christian wrote: I know Phil, albeit it hasn't been for long, and the last thing I'd describe him as is "malicious"...
i too will vouch for phil. he simply made a mistake--one that could have been avoided if he had shown more foresight, certainly--but we've all made really dumb mistakes from time to time. yesterday i unclipped myself from the anchor to start the second pitch of a climb before i realized my partner didn't yet have me on belay (my fault).
we learn from our mistakes. with the massive verbal thrashing phil has gotten after making this exceptionally dumb mistake i think he will have learned his lesson well. |  |
By Braxton Norwood From Tucson May 9, 2008
| That's me in my fancy dead horse beating outfit.
Darryl & Greg,
I respect your opinions. However, I don't like that we're at the mercy of a few individuals who have the power to revoke our climbing privileges/rights on a whim. I really don't like when individuals don't realize or care that their actions can and do affect things for the rest of us. Publicizing your illegal/prohibited actions makes it trivially easy for regulating agencies to justify stricter rules, more enforcement, and harsher penalties.
What's interesting to me about that article is that Potter likely wasn't the first to climb the arch (as there were several rope-notches), he was simply the first to publicize it, which gave the Parks Service every reason to revise climbing regulations.
In the end, it doesn't matter than 99% of climbers either abide by the rules or don't advertise that they break them. It's thanks to that ____ 1% that things get changed for the rest of us.
Anybody know the number for Tucson dead horse removal?
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By Eyes Of Green From Phoenix, AZ May 9, 2008
| Braxton Norwood wrote: Anyone can read this thread (which has a rather eye-catching title) without logging-in or creating an account.
Braxton, I'm well aware of that and my post was with that exact possibility in mind.
Edited to add: good posts, bio. |  |
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