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Ignoring the falcon bans on Lemmon...

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By Paul Davidson
May 9, 2008

If you want to see some awesome footage of Peregrines in flight and doing their stoop (dive), look for the PBS Nature show, Raptor Force.

http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/raptorforce/index.html
and a glimpse into the falcon cam at:
http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/raptorforce/soaring.html

Unbelievable footage. Unbelievable birds.

Now Eric, tell me how you really feel about this issue.
Don't hold back man, just let it out...

You're gonna have to rename Pair-a-Grins to Remove-the-Bans


Ahhh, one last point, it's not at all true that a single incident will have no effect.
Single mistakes can and have had far reaching ones.
As mentioned above, just look at Dean Potter's little feau paux .

In Tucson, back in the Save Campbell Cliff days, at one point in time, the land owner was considering trying to work with climbers to keep access to the cliff. Then one day he had a nasty interaction with some folks and that was pretty much that in terms of any possible negotiated solution. Guess who won out ?

The Butterfly effect can sometimes create some very unexpected consequences.

Yeah, the bans sometimes seem a bit "excessive." Gnt Mnt, close the hole cliff for a single pair ? Surely 2 of the 3 main areas could be left open without disturbing the cute little bastards.

But, sometimes when Da Man talks, da climbers have to listen (and obey, hey.)

And Bravo to Phil for having the stones to step up and admit his mistake. Never having made any (mistakes that is), I can only imagine how hard that is. Now I gotta go put ice on my tongue.

By RFields
May 13, 2008

Unfortunately, the Land manager is the honcho. Years ago lots of bolting was going on in a place called Zonerland in the Superstitions by several young climbers. They completely ignored any land manager concerns and ripped out barrel cacti at the base of climbs, stomped on plant life, put in pretty shiny bolts rather than painting them to blend in, told the managers to basically f**k off to their faces.

Whoa, where did you get that information. And do people actually think that is what happened? That could not be FURTHER from the truth.

By William Dacier
From Phoenix AZ
May 13, 2008

Ryan:

A great bit of it is true and you know it.

By RFields
May 13, 2008

William Dacier wrote:
Ryan: A great bit of it is true and you know it.



OK, I'll bite.
First of all have you ever climbed up there?

By William Dacier
From Phoenix AZ
May 13, 2008

Yes, several times in the past, actually.

By Mike Covington
May 13, 2008

William Dacier wrote:
Unfortunately, the Land manager is the honcho. Years ago lots of bolting was going on in a place called Zonerland in the Superstitions by several young climbers. They completely ignored any land manager concerns and ripped out barrel cacti at the base of climbs, stomped on plant life, put in pretty shiny bolts rather than painting them to blend in, told the managers to basically f**k off to their faces. Guess what, Not So Famous Old Dude...the Forest Services closed down all wilderness areas in all National Forests to bolting. So go ahead and ignore their wishes at your peril. If you piss them off they f**k you over. So, now go ahead and ignore the raptor closings, and have the Mt Lemmon summit crags permanently closed. That way guys like Phil can screw it all up for us. And, yes, I think some of these closures are too large an area.


The picture painted by this statement is wrong and completely misrepresents what actually happened. There are serious issues that climbers should have with how the Wilderness Act of 1964 is applied to outlaw bolting. Some land managers have seen fit to allow and mange bolting in certain wilderness areas. Much of that is directly the result of the issues raised by climbers involved with the Zonerland bolting thing. Unfortunately the head honcho in charge of the Supes interpretes the law against bolting.

We were completely respectfull of the "man" and cooperated fully. Even giving washington big wigs a tour - I think his name was Deaver - I'll never forget his statement to me while giving a tour of all the so called "destruction" - he was having a hard time seeing the bolts and was wondering what all of the big deal was about, he then commented that the area was inspirig him to learn to climb.

A first hand account from somebody that was there.

By RFields
May 13, 2008

Good to know. Where did you get the information from your previous post because it isn't true and I don't know it. Yes there were a couple of people who went up there that had there own set of ethics other than the locals at the time, and they were pretty much shut down internally. Personally, I painted almost all the bolts in Zonerland proper before a scheduled meeting with the local and national rangers. The first thing we did was stand them in the middle of Zonerland and ask them to find a single bolt on their own and they couldn't. We then took them on a tour of the sorrounding other areas and they refused to walk on the animal trails we used, after watching them trample vegitation and not use the obvious trails I asked them to use the trails we used because they were obvious. They responded by saying they couldn't see the animal trails. Perhaps there is a bit of a myth sorrounding Zonerland. In retrospect I think Zonerland is still one of the most pristine and out of the way climbing areas in Arizona. If anything many of the routes are run out and under bolted to today's standards. To say that routes are squeezed in or overbolting happened in this area is absurd. Most importantly to say that we said f*** off to the rangers faces is an insult to those in the know. This myth was probably the reason a local branch of the Access Fund was organized hearing the wild tales of bolts everywhere and trash seaping from every crevice. This organization wanted to help and organized a big group armed with Hefty trash bags and knives to cut all the webbing left at anchors (pre-chains) What they found wouldn't even fill a quarter of a trash bag ( I don't even think it was climbers trash)and no webbing booty because no one could get to the top of the routes. It was a complete joke and still is to this day. It was and still is obvious that this ban and hype Zonerland recieved was not justified and product of gossip gone wild. Fred the original and sole complainer to the rangers was actually shooting at bolts with a rifle. He told me this when we actually ate lunch together up there. This was his personal stomping grounds and he wanted it to himself. That was the reason he was complaining. To get us out of his back yard. He stashed gear up there just like we did, only ours was called trash.

By Greg Opland
Administrator
May 14, 2008

Lemmon? Falcons?

William Dacier wrote:
Forest Services closed down all wilderness areas in all National Forests to bolting.


I don't believe this is true. Can't say absolutely, but I think the only two (there are probably more) Wilderness Areas where bolting has been expressly forbidden is the Elephant Perch in Idaho, and The Superstitions in Arizona. Anything above 400 foot level on El Capitan is considered wilderness. That's why people can't use power drills up there (after the Muir event a few years back), but hand drilling is allowed.

An example...approximately 80% of Joshua Tree is wilderness...here are the rules for bolting:

NEW BOLTING PROCEDURES Jan 14, 2001
From Joshua Tree National Park's "Joshua Tree Guide" Spring 2001
"If you find an unsafe bolt in either wilderness or non-wilderness, you may replace it. Please replace on a piece-by-piece basis and use rock colored bolts and hangers. Use the existing hole whenever possible and when unable, fill the old hole with rock material blended with bonding agents. If you wish to use a power drill, you must first obtain a Special Use Permit.
A permit issued by the park super intendent is required to place new bolts in wilderness. The review process may take up to six months, so advance planning will be needed.


We have no such procedure in place in the Supes and someone is going to get really f*(ked up because of that one of these days when a 40 year old rust-bucket bolt fails.

Thanks for the history Ryan...seems like a lotta years since we used to see you working on problems on the Pencil Thin boulder. Much harder now, what with the layer of paint and all. I'll have to review the last few days of comments...don't recall seeing any about squeezing routes over overbolting. Definutely NOT an attribute of Zonerland or anywhere else in the Supes for that matter.

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
May 14, 2008

Greg Opland wrote:
A permit issued by the park super intendent is required to place new bolts in wilderness. The review process may take up to six months, so advance planning will be needed.


This kind of thing is what kills me about gub'ment bureaucracy. How does this work? They get an application that says, "The bolt on Pull Yer Knickers Up Gal at the 5.14d crux is way mank. I am going to pull it, replace it with a nice new one, and by doing so, save all humanity and bring peace to the world."

Some official gets this, reads it, then puts it in drawer, sets up an Outlook tickler, and six months later he stamps it "approved" and notifies the applicant, who by this time has finished his masters degree in biology and is working in the office next to this guy typing up the next raptor closure notice??????

By Greg Opland
Administrator
May 14, 2008

Um... maybe reread... you don't need approval to REPLACE a bolt on a one-for-one basis, just for NEW bolts (aka NEW routes).

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
May 14, 2008

Greg Opland wrote:
Um... maybe reread... you don't need approval to REPLACE a bolt on a one-for-one basis, just for NEW bolts (aka NEW routes).


Oops, okay, I fixed it:

This kind of thing is what kills me about gub'ment bureaucracy. How does this work? They get an application that says, "I intend to put up a new route called Pull Yer Knickers Up Gal in Turkey Vulture Wilderness Area. I am going to make it quite spicy, because I don't want to use too many of those impossible to detect little bolts for fear of setting off a storm of popularity resulting in the uprooting of various barrel and cholla cacti. I plan on it coming in at 5.14d, and chipping off and/or gluing on holds until it is exactly that."

Some official gets this, reads it, then puts it in drawer, sets up an Outlook tickler, and six months later he stamps it "approved" and notifies the applicant, who by this time has finished his masters degree in biology and is working in the office next to this guy typing up the next raptor closure notice??????

By William Dacier
From Phoenix AZ
May 14, 2008

I'm curious to know where I can just put a NEW bolt in a wilderness area without prior approval from THE MAN. I don't think there are any...so effectively, there is no NEW bolting in wilderness areas. Six months and you still won't get a positive response from THE MAN. Has any one ever gotten permission to put a NEW bolt in a wilderness area? That seems to be reality.

By Greg Opland
Administrator
May 14, 2008

I'm pretty sure I could dig up some more wilderness area where this is true, but... anywhere over 400 foot elevation on El Capitan in Yosemite is wilderness area. You can place a bolt there and be in the wilderness if you really wanna. But you can't use a power drill.

By kirra
May 14, 2008

Greg Opland wrote:
We have no such procedure in place in the Supes and someone is going to get really f*(ked up because of that one of these days when a 40 year old rust-bucket bolt fails.

agreed this is an accident waiting to happen. I hope it doesn't take one for something to change or somehow approval be allowed for replacement at least

By Greg Opland
Administrator
May 14, 2008

I hope that never happens. I recently got some names from an FS guy that we met with and I'm hoping I can contact someone to reopen the discussion about replacement. Manny tried this a few years back and got exactly nowhere, so I'm going into it with an expectation of failure.

I would guess, rather than open up a policy of bolt replacment, that the effect of a bad climbing accident due to bolt failure in the Supes would be a closure to climbing. Sort of glass half empty view, but when you beat a dog enough...

By kirra
May 14, 2008

Greg Opland wrote:
I would guess, rather than open up a policy of bolt replacment, that the effect of a bad climbing accident due to bolt failure in the Supes would be a closure to climbing.

That was the first thing that came to my mind o'fear also

Perhaps there is a 'new guy' to deal with since Manny tried. Good luck with that Greg

By William Dacier
From Phoenix AZ
May 15, 2008

Greg:

Good luck with the bolt replacement endeavor in the Superstitions. Thanks for the efforts, too.

By bio
From mesa, az
May 15, 2008

Greg, who is the guy in charge currently in the supes that enforces or interpretes the law in this way. Do you know his name and location? I'd be willing to have a chat with him.
S

By ElyseSokoloff
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 21, 2008

Phil Persson wrote:
HealyJe: Thank you for the insight into the reasoning behind the raptor/falcon closures in climbing areas; I guess I underestimated how fragile and easily disturbed their nests and habitat are. While I may not agree with the closures personally, I do agree that these are amazing creatures and we should make an effort to share the rock with them. You seem to know quite a bit on this subject, it was interesting reading a climber's perspective on this. Thanks for the time to clarify this, I appreciate it. As for anyone else I've offended, I'm sorry!! Don't know what else to say. Everyone slip's up occasionally I guess. And hey shouldn't we all be out climbing instead of lurking on mountainproject? This is a great website and I think all y'all are good people, but let's not get caught up in the details here so to speak. If I sounded kinda cynical or sarcastic when I responded to 'Eyes of Green''s initial post I apologize.... honestly I didn't mean any harm by it, I guess at the time after having climbed all day there and not seen a sign of a single raptor or falcon it seemed kinda silly, plus we didn't even know it was closed. Let's all get back out climbing and on with life!! :) Best Regards, Phil.



Phil, you also said this: (can't get it to format as a quote sorry!)
I do know about the bird closures, thanks for the head's up though.

So you did or didn't know?


You've said two conflicting statements, I'm curious as to which one is correct.

By Rick Percival
May 22, 2008

Where is the Red Headed Rock Pecker when you need him.

By The Red Headed Rock Pecker
May 22, 2008

Well I heard that the Red Headed Rock Pecker is off the beach, and is climbing again !!! As far as Zonerland goes the bolting ban was a blessing. Zonerland was being invaded by the type of people that we did not like, and we were running out of places to bury them. If you go there now it is so nice and peaceful and you can hang out with Brutus and Thor, and yell and scream and no one cares. And there are 200 plus routes and endless bouldering!!!!! With out the ban we never would of had so much fun in Queen Creek plus that hike to Zonerland was stupid!Hey Ryan I'm 175 LB and 43 and can still slam you on the ground and take your Moms money!!!! Everyone else go to Zonerland and have a great time, no one there and so much to explore !!!! Remember there is gold in them there hills!!!

By rickd
May 22, 2008

red head-

you once wrote:
"nobody likes you !! except the person who took your #3 friend that you left because you could not do it.
red Headed rock Pecker"

then you added "no legs" on the photo credit.

bastidge.

By Rick Percival
May 22, 2008

Finally a breath of fresh air!! Hey Rock Pecker.. I'm glad you brought up Brutus and Thor. I forgot about them. I hope they are still floating the thermals but do you remember that time Scottie Hynes hit the deck from such a long ways up and we all laughed and threw Oreos at him. How about the time I burned a huge hole in Geiks new rope while juggling hot coals the weekend Kelly and I put up Tone of a bell. The bastard made me buy him a new one. Speaking of Geik..Remember him all gripped out drilling a bolt on that ledge during Billy Idol. Bill Paul sure gave him a hard time for that. I can still see Ryan strolling up the death slabs with a pack two feet taller than he was thinking, " who is this kid." He then flashed everything. Back off now and give this one some room! And then Covington came up and gave us the Avenger. Sweeeet. Rick Donnelly AKA the Gimp did Sicky Wife Beater and The Crooked Judge and that was with both legs all broke to hell. He sure had it in him. Hey Rock Pecker! Remember when Jay Anderson on sight soloed Big Bad Bruce. How about when Ira soloed Grranimal all shaky like and Tim Winger yelled up to him, "Hey Ira..when you fall and die can I have your skull" Boy did that blow Ira's psyc. How about that Thanksgiving when John Bartlett humped up TWO full coolers of beer packed full of ice all by himself. God I loved that man after that. Hey Rock Pecker..How about the time Steve Shultz got all drunk that one night and dropped trow and set up a Tyrolian. Kinda weird but you would of had to have been there. How about Bary Ward doing To Much Commotion. Boy that sure caused a commotion. Not. Hey Rock Pecker.. Whats Smelser doing these days. He sure put up some quality routes.

Those were some good times. People can say what they want about Zonerland but they cannot say that that we trashed the place. We cared for it. Also each and every bolt placed was needed. Well I guess they could say those things but they would not know what they were talking about now would they, Rock Pecker?

By Greg Opland
Administrator
May 22, 2008

Smelser is still around. Run into him from time to time. Those little kiddies that he used to stash in the playpen at Beardsley are in or out of college now. Damn...

By Rick Percival
May 23, 2008

Greg,
How about Larry Braten. Ever run into him. He took me to the Sups for my 1st time. Scary Larry SUPer star. Fck your banana. Pecker? You still out there? Remember?

Call me. We can work something out for that beta you need.


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