Well the bolting effort on What's My Line is complete as of yesterday. Aside from all the stinking bird nests we had to clear out along the way, everything went quite well. Bolts are placed about every 10 feet or so except over the chickenheads where they're placed about every 5 or 6 feet for added safety. The ASCA grant was more than enough to cover the cost of all the wood screws and plywood so we used the left over funds to install a rope ladder below the first ledge move eliminating the need to do that pesky pendulum move.

Please refrain from any extravagant gratuitous orations. My source of fulfillment is a job well done.

Before anyone gets too excited, please check the calendar.

Don't call off the dogs, run with them.

Buzzkill

It took a few minutes and then the coffee kicked in...I just got it.
However, there's probably a few folks on their way to climb the route in it's new form.

Good one,

JF

I bet there are a few people out there that know the difference between "there" and "their" too.

Well it seems the board has turned into an ethical debate again. I see that everyone says bolt this or don't bolt that. That's all fine but all we are talking about is gear. That isn't climbing. Climbing is about moving over the rock and getting handholds and footholds. Some of these holds are smaller than others. Sometimes you need to break off a bit of rock to hold it better, or if you are lucky you can just epoxy the loose flakes down. I wouldn't worry about damage too much, after we humans are extinct there will only be erosion, so what if we speed that up a little bit.

Yes I'm talking about chipping and glueing, it's OK. It's not that bad really, Sphinx Crack is 100% manufactured, I wish I could climb it.

Here is what should be the ethics of chipping. Try the route without it first, only chip on lead (that way you won't do it too much), get good epoxy so holds won't have to be reglued, try to chip in such a way that the rock can be repaired after you've sent the problem and want to pull harder moves, don't chip to contrive a line - only supplement natural lines.

Remember the climber who having the most fun is the best!!!!

good stuff. does anyone have an update on the effort to grid-bolt the sheepshead? it sounds like an awesome idea; that way you can just make up your own route instead of following somebody else's line.

Maybe it's in my head but i keep feeling hands around my throat at intervals similar to the frequency at which my initial entry is read. ;) Sorry for the raised blood pressure and monitors covered in spewn coffee, everyone. But... HAPPY APRIL FOOLS!! =D

Where did you hear about the Sheepshead grid bolt effort? Sounds expensive - that thing is massive. I can see it from my house in Hereford.

it's going to start at bean fest i think. that's when a lot of the people with drills will be out there. it should be finished by fall, just in time for the new cochise season. i'm really looking forward to it; i've been thinking about trying a line that's sort of a combination of ewephoria and too tough to die...though those climbs won't really exist anymore of course.

Did you chip out good belay ledges or simply placed fixed portaledges at each belay?

How's the Via Feratta up Abracadaver coming?

Please chip out Inner Passages a little for the girth impaired.

omg, i just wiki'd via feratta and they have some example photos... check this one out:
But read this snippet from the same article: