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Climbing Near NM/CO Border

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By Tracy Roach
From Littleton
Jun 19, 2007
I'm so glad he spelled it right.

I'm heading down to NM this weekend and I'm looking to do some climbing around the CO/NM border. I've heard of a place called Red River but I can't seem to find any beta. I don't need route specific info, more just info on how to get there, grade range and style (trad/sport). I just want enough to entertain me until mid afternoon. I'm heading up Wheeler Peak at night so an area not too far from that would be great! If there is any other area close to the border, please let me know. Thanks!

By Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Jun 19, 2007
Merry Christmas!

The Red River area is listed on Mtn Project under NM, though there aren't any routes listed. I've never climbed there though. I believe its a lower-quality roadside crag. Its included in the "Taos Rock" guide published by Sharpend books.

There's a lot of basalt in the Taos area, but its gonna be hot as hell this weekend, so basalt is probably out. Tres Piedras is sort of in that area offering granite-like slab and crack climbing. If you're up for an adventure I would suggest Questa Dome which is maybe 20-30 miles north of Taos. Its a 4-5 pitch tall granite dome ala the S Platte. Easiest lines are around 5.10+/11- I believe.

By Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Jun 19, 2007
Merry Christmas!

Red River beta is here

By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Jun 20, 2007
Almost there......

Tracy - I started a short-lived thread awhile ago asking what climbing may be around Pagosa Springs. There might be something around Vallecito Lake: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado__rocky_mountain_re>>>>>

By kirra
Jun 20, 2007

additional beta from 'Taos Rock':

..."At northwest corner of the courts, across the stream, you will find some small boulders on the trail. Follow faint talus trail above boulders to base of climbs. To set up TR's continue north on lower trail for another 60 yds. There will be a faint trail leading to back of cliffs. There are chain anchors on top of cliff to rap over to toprope anchors. Approaches are steep & loose but short"...

Red River has food, free camping in Natnl.Forest, gas & pay-shower.

Have fun..!

By J. MAN
From BAYFIELD, CO.
Jun 20, 2007
Off route in the Black and lovin it! Photo by Cpt. E.

Tres Piedras would be a great day or half day of climbing. I was just there last weekend-cool chickenheads. The temperatures were o.k. for climbing here last weekend. Also, there is some sport climbing in the Florida River Gorge-(Lemon Res.), and some sport and trad at Vallecito Lake area.

By Tracy Roach
From Littleton
Jun 20, 2007
I'm so glad he spelled it right.

Thanks guys! Oh yeah, free camping!

Kirra. . .next time you come with, capiche? :-)

By kirra
Jun 20, 2007

bueno chica...!

By Jeff Giddings
From Fort Collins
Jun 20, 2007
Entering Glacier Gorge with Pagoda in the forefront and The Spearhead just in view on the right.

Tres Piedres is great. Check out the Falcon NM guide book for beta. Very scenic with great one pitch bolted and trad lines.

By Malcolm Daly
From Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2007

If you want to go on an adventure there are some killer looking crags west of Cimarron and Philmont, just as the road starts it's climb up to Eagle Nest. Don't know anything about them but it looks like great climbing on steep granite/basalt (or whatever) Remember, it's an adventure.

Full TR expected.
Mal

By Randall Gann
Jun 20, 2007

Tres Piedras is probably your best bet if your headed to Wheeler, it's only about 40 miles away from the trailhead. The camping there is TROPHY and free and the crag is a very short walk from camp. But do your self a favor...skip the Falcon guide and buy Jay Foley's "Taos Rock."

By George Perkins
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Jun 21, 2007

The Falcon NM guide and Taos Rock are almost exactly identical word-for-word regarding Tres Piedras route descriptions and which routes are included, and neither one has particularly amazing photos or topos for this area- equally helpful. It is clear that Foley referred to Jackson, both of whom referred to Jaramillo's old Taos guide when writing these... If you plan on climbing in Taos County often, the Taos Rock book is versatile as it has more crags; the Falcon guide is sometimes the only inprint resource, mainly at southern NM areas (Tunnels, Socorro Box, Organs, etc.)

The Cimarron crags Malcolm Daly mentioned are included the Taos Rock book.

By Kevin Friesen
Jun 22, 2007

What about El Rito (route info here at Mountain Project)? It's sport climbing on steep cobblestones set in a conglomerate. Camping is good except for occasional cattle.

By cammo
Apr 17, 2008
Cammo

My wife Ann and I lived in Angel Fire for a year and we did a fair number of routes in Cimarron Canyon. Buckets to do there......

By Scott M. Mossman
Apr 17, 2008
Messing around in RMNP in winter, climbing 5.7 in rubber snow boots and ski gloves.

If you go there in the summer time, 95% of the license plates will be from texas, so bring your cowboy hat and have your y'alls up to snuff.

By Kevin McLaughlin
From Colorado Springs
Apr 17, 2008
Thunder Ridge- Storm, 5.12, Wasp Canyon

What part of the border are you speaking about ? Going down I-25 just into N.M. is a sweet spot called Sugarite Canyon State Park . Well worth the stop . Just N.E. of Raton.


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