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Dugald's Route 

5.10

   

FA: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Season: spring to fall
Views: 116 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on May 11, 2006


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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The difficulty of this climb will vary greatly upon the exact line taken and what is "on" or "off." If you climb just the crack though the roof (crux) it is solid 5.10. Allowing face holds and deviation from the most direct line, it may be 5.10a.
Climb up the jumble of boulders and set pro before getting in the start of the crux, a flaring handjam. Set more pro (in the jam) and them beat the roof one of a few ways. If you use ONLY the crack it may be low 5.11, with a few sensible footholds, it's 5.10. Allowing for deviations from the crack, it might go in as easy as 5.10a. Continue up easier rock on good pro to the top of the cliff.


Location 

This is the 4th route encountered after the descent and is just right of '3 Rurps.' It is a hand-jam below an overhang, transitioning to a short and shallow right-facing corner.


Protection 

A set of stoppers + cams to 3". A 2.5" cam and a small nut are crux pro.
There is a good, solid tree above this to sling for a belay.



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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: flagstaff, az
May 15, 2007

You can also make this into a pretty good 5.8ish route by skipping the first roof. Climb past it just to the right, then traverse into the crack above the first roof. Pull the second roof and continue up. Plenty of fun climbing to be had above.

By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

First ascent: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)