Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Mustang
Show routes:
Select route...
BeeWare! 
Caballo Loco 
Caliente 
Chertin for Certain 
DMB 
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) 
Left Y Crack 
Mustang Sally 
New Safari 
Nova Super Sport 
Pencil Dick 
Saddle Up 
Se Camina Espanol 
Slim Jim 
Stinkbug Cowgirl 

Pencil Dick 

5.11+

   

FA: JSt, DBr ?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 102 feet
Views: 310 page views

Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Apr 15, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

Long and sustained. Lots of variety, crimps, underclings, sidepulls, pinches, jugs, slopey stuff, little pockets, huge pockets, and one shaped like a big bull penis. This climb has it all.

There is a distinct crux near the top. I think it was between the last two bolts. Thin moves there.

A 60 meter barely reaches with rope stretch. I think My rope might be short for 60M though...


Location 

2nd route from the right in a little cove about 100ft up from where the trail deposits you by Beeware. Starts on a nice ledge.


Protection 

12 bolts, chain anchors



Comments on Pencil Dick Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Rhicard
Apr 15, 2007

Thanks for including me Joseph but I was not involved in the FA of this one. I did climb it and it was "thin where it was hard" thus the name. This is a must do route.

By dcohn
Jun 4, 2007

That's funny. I thought the route was named after the very long and narrow hole that is about a third of the way up the route.

By Jimbo
Jun 11, 2007

Actually there is a soda straw formation way in the back of one of the holes at the top. That's where the name actually came from.