The start of the business. Josie brailles the cri...
Description
Like the Shepard's Pie we used to choke-down in grade school, this climb has pretty much everything, aside from mystery meat: crimps, pockets, side-pull, heel hook, knee bar, lumpy-tufa, and the cherry on top: it's over-hanging.
Location
In the back-left of the first cave you'll encounter walking the trail (Spine Cave). Starts and stays just left of the tufa (spine-looking thing) down low.
Protection
You'll need 4 quickdraws to supplement the graciously-provided chain draws. There are 2 chains, but no carabiners, at the top of this climb as of 02/09.
You don't have to knee bar. There's an alternate way to do it that worked better for me (I don't care for knee bar-ing), which involves putting your right foot higher. Hopefully that's ambiguous enough to not give away too much beta.
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Jan 20, 2008 rating: 5.12
Perhaps the best "low 12" sport route in S. Az. This climb really rocks.
Takes 4 draws, then has chain-draws. Perhaps a touch stiff for 12b since the FAist was 6'6" and therefore could do the crux clip from the kneebar. Tyler (who wrote the guide) was over 6' also. The crux chain-draw has a uncinched carabiner which allows it to spin. Next time I'm there I will replace it with a longer, better, properly puttied chain-draw.
Update: crux chaindraw replaced Feb 2008.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 24, 2008
So 3 quickdraws and a handful of loose biners for gear then? Anyone know how many total bolts including chains?
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Apr 24, 2008 rating: 5.12
Not sure why you care but...4 bolts, 3 chain-draws, + a poorly placed 2-chain anchor.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Oct 26, 2008
"Not sure why you care but.." What; am i forbidden to ask such things?
Ask away Daryl. I am guessing the reason John wrote his comment the way he did is because it is a sport route. Look up, count hangers, rack up. I am sure it just struck John as an odd question for a sport route. So ask away, post routes, put up new routes, post topos, and have fun climbing. Hope to finally meet you at the Beanfest next week. Eric
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Dec 5, 2008 rating: 5.12
Looking back I can see another question hidden inside Daryl's question. He mentions a "handful of loose biners". So I guess it was unclear that a chain-draw generally INCLUDES the biner. Otherwise the chain-draw would not really serve a very useful function.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
