To get to the first belay; climb up to the leaning boulder. This is NOT a 4th class scramble (more like a 5.6), and it is short and unprotectable. P1: Belay from the large boulder on the south side. Climb up and right of an overhang; above the overhang go left toward a pocketed face. There are two bolts on this face (2nd bolt is hard to see until you are on it toward the top of the wall). To the left there will be a chained rap station, clip one of the bolts with a 48"+ runner or there will be rope drag. Follow a water trough up to a two bolt belay on the main wall.(~160') P2: This pitch has three bolts (hard to see) w/ sparse pro. The pitch trends up and right and will eventually lead to a two bolt anchor on the left side at the mouth of the gully/chimney pitch. (~150') P3: Follow the gully until you need to start chimneying up. Belay from a two bolted anchor out right from the chimney - on top of a huge boulder. (~160') P4: Directly across from the belay there is a crack system. The "spiderwalk" pitch involves stepping across to the main wall, traversing right on the face for about 35', then climbing up and left to the crack system. The rock is choss and there is little protection. Variation to P4: Step across to the main wall and climb the crack to the top. A large boulder is slung for belaying/rapping. (~90') To reach the summit, crawl through The Eye at the top of this pitch and (4th class)scramble to the top. Descent: Rap the route w/ two 60m ropes.
Location
This route is located on the immediate right side of the entrance to Suction Gully below the obvious boulder leaning on a ledge.
By Pete Hickman From: Phoenix, az Sep 22, 2008 rating: 5.6 R
If you are going to spider walk pay close attention to these several things: At the end of the first pitch one of the bolts has sheared/pulled. I found the hanger laying on the ground. This leaves one old bolt for a double rope rap with no other options for pro. Instead of rapping all the way to the ground we rapped from the single bolt to a good rap station half way down the first pitch which I had not seen on the way up. This would be a single rope rap, and then another single rope rap to the start of pitch one, and then another short rap to the ground. Also, we got off route on the second pitch because I did not go far enough right, and ended up on a huge ledge above and left of the correct end of the second pitch. From here we decided to bail and did a rope stretching double rope rap back to the single bolt at the top of pitch one from a four piece gear anchor someone had left (2 nuts, flex cam, and red tricam). However, we were not able to pull the ropes even though they were not caught on anything. If you find yourself in this position on this huge ledge, single rope rap down and around to the climbers right to find the correct rap station, then set up another rap from that station which you will have to use to pull your original rope. You can then single rope rap to the first bolt on the second pitch which is on a flat spot and not too too sketchy for another short rap to the top of the first pitch. In order to figure this all out I had to prusik up a 200 foot stuck double rap not once but twice. It was really quite an amazing situation but we got down without dying or leaving any ropes. When in the superstitions I have learned to simply be happy with not loosing my life.
ATD (partner) and I just completed this route today. It was my second time - first time was in 2006 when there were a few more bolts in place. There is still only one, ancient, rusty, button-head bolt, along with its rusted hanger, at the top of P1. This is currently the only rap protection from this point since there is nothing to sling and nowhere for pro. The bolt anchors atop P2 and P3 are still in tact, but are equally as ancient. We used the intermediate rap station partway down P1 but it too needs replacement.
This route is in great need of retro bolting. The views from the route are spectacular and make for an enjoyable day in the Superstitions. But due to the poor rock quality and due to all of the anchor bolts looking as if they are ready to blow, I will not be back on this one until I know its been redrilled with new hardware.
One other caution - the hike down along the scree back to Siphon Draw Trail is quite loose. If you are prone to clumsiness then you may want to keep your helmet on while hiking down the climber trail.
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