The crux is the start of the third pitch. The move can be protected with a small cam (e.g. blue alien). The route does wander a bit. The Phoenix Rock (Jim Waugh edition) guide book has a good photo and route description. Rock quality is ok.
Location
The route is on the left hand side of the wall. I will upload a picture of the wall and the route ASAP. The route wanders a bit, and some find route finding difficult. I have provided the route description (as found in Waugh) as a comment below. Take a look at the route photo, and read the description to avoid problems.
Please note. Someone has recently replaced the hardware on this climb. So, it is possible AND advisable to rap the route (take two ropes). It is possible to walk off the back side, but the going is rough and steep, and not fun.
Protection
Standard rack. Large cams are useful (P3 and P4) if you tend to be sketched on run-out 5.6-5.7 Trad.
(From Waugh 1987) Look for the low-angled slabs just left and below the lighter-colored rock on the wall.
P1- "Climb the bulge veering left onto enjoyable friction climbing that leads to a ledge (about 45 ft). Climb 25 ft veering left over the next bulge to a bolt. From here work up face to the long ledge at the top of the friction slabs (2 belay bolts)"; NOTE- new hangers and rap rings here.
P2- "A tree will be noted above. Climb up 120-130 feet towards the tree to a ledge (belay bolt)"; NOTE- new hangers here too.
P3-"Climb the chute on right (5.7), then continue up easier ground to underneath a large block. Clear the block to the prominent tree above. Now go straight up the obvious chute, then continue up slightly left until possible to traverse right to a large ledge. Walk right to a left, diagonaling (sic) crack, then climb 30 ft to belay (2 bolts)"; NOTE rope drag makes the last 30 feet difficult. One can place gear at the far right end of the ledge to bring up your second. Then a short pitch to get to the belay for the start of P4.
P4-"Climb the muddy outcrop above for 10 ft, then continue for 70 ft up a chute past dubious fixed piton to a ledge with a dead tree and a saguaro (bolt and fixed piton)"; Note: the chute is more like an off-width/chimney. New rap rings and one new bolt and hanger.
P5-"Continue up the obvious crack for 20 ft where easier climbing leads to the top". Note: new rap rings on top too.
I completely agree with the "wandering route" synopsis of the climb. It's easy to find yourself off route on this climb. I was part of the group that replaced the anchors on this one, so you'll know you're going the right way when you find yourself clipped into nice, new anchors! Overall, this is a fun multi-pitch climb on decent rock.
As an added note, despite the age of this route, new hangers are at the top of the pitches and rapping off is now safer, however rope management is critical. Bring two ropes if you intend to rap
I agree with Greg. Walking off this route is a sounder option than rapping. Warning...the last rap/anchor is a slung boulder that leans downhill. Be careful. There are other options for belaying past this boulder.
The walk-off really isn't that bad, just make sure to cut hard right (there is a faint use 'trail') so you don't end up in the wash. At 45min, probably faster than rapping, as well as safer. Kind of sucks lugging boots up though.
Carney Springs Wall
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