Pitch 1: Climb a short, left facing corner (5.6). The start of this climb requires a little route finding skills. Pitch 2: Move up left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay. Pitch3: The pinnacle looms to the northeast above the notch. Traverse left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay. Pitch4: Move left from the belay ledge and climb a short crack to a good stance with a funky bolt. From here the pitch wonders a little but route findings is easy.
Location
Scramble up to the top of the gully and start below the right trough/gully system on the south side of the tallest pinnacle. Descent: 3 rappels. For rap 1, do a 2-rope rappel past pitch 4's belay (20' below) to anchors in an east facing gully/ramp. For rap 2, do a 2-rope rappel to a bolt anchor atop pitch 1. For rap 3, rappel to the base.
Protection
1 set of stoppers. 2 sets Friends to 3 inches. 2 ropes
By Jon Richard From: St. Louis, Missouri Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.9+ PG13
This is an awesome climb with a high scenic factor. From a protection perspective this is a serious climb not for beginner 5.9 leaders. As with other routes in the "Sups" watch out for loose rock.
By Chris Darr From: Denver, Co Jul 17, 2008 rating: 5.9
The First Ascent party was the (in)famous Banditos... Look for the homemade bolt at the crux. and be sure to girth hitch the barrel cactus at the top of pitch 1, it drives your second crazy. I also would not consider this a grade III, at most a II.
Hobgoblin Spires
RSS Feed
