The route goes up crack systems on the wall just to the left of the entrance to Suction Gully. P1: Work up double cracks until it is possible to step into the left crack system. Follow the crack up to a right facing corner and behind a finger to a slinged belay. ~100' P2: Move left to a crack system that ascends past a white spot. Squeeze through a hole to a tied-off belay boulder. ~100' P3: Work left and climb into a chimney to a belay ledge where it there is an obvious traverse to the left. Pro is sparse for the belay anchor. ~100' P4: Traverse left around a corner and follow cracks and corners to a false summit. Scramble right to the true summit. Pro is sparse on this pitch. One bolt to belay. ~150' Descent: Downclimb south and east of the summit on belay, or rap off the one bolt w/ quick link to a rap slinged tree. Make a 2-rope rap down a chimney to a niche to a rap slinged chockstone. Make another 2-rope rap down a gully to the ground.
Climbed it twice. The first time my CP had a lot of rope drag on P4. I led it the second time, and I experienced the same problem. With little pro and the hardest move on the climb, the rope drag was a real DRAG. Otherwise, it is a fun climb! We climbed Rink-Kudo and then followed it with Spider Walk. Awesome.
Hobgoblin Spires
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