The route goes up crack systems on the wall just to the left of the entrance to Suction Gully. P1: Work up double cracks until it is possible to step into the left crack system. Follow the crack up to a right facing corner and behind a finger to a slinged belay. ~100' P2: Move left to a crack system that ascends past a white spot. Squeeze through a hole to a tied-off belay boulder. ~100' P3: Work left and climb into a chimney to a belay ledge where it there is an obvious traverse to the left. Pro is sparse for the belay anchor. ~100' P4: Traverse left around a corner and follow cracks and corners to a false summit. Scramble right to the true summit. Pro is sparse on this pitch. One bolt to belay. ~150' Descent: Downclimb south and east of the summit on belay, or rap off the one bolt w/ quick link to a rap slinged tree. Make a 2-rope rap down a chimney to a niche to a rap slinged chockstone. Make another 2-rope rap down a gully to the ground.
Climbed it twice. The first time my CP had a lot of rope drag on P4. I led it the second time, and I experienced the same problem. With little pro and the hardest move on the climb, the rope drag was a real DRAG. Otherwise, it is a fun climb! We climbed Rink-Kudo and then followed it with Spider Walk. Awesome.
The first two pitches were pretty good. The third, chimney pitch, was pretty horrible. Lose, sharp rock everywhere and suspect pro placements. The fourth pitch is the worst pitch of climbing I've ever done. There was maybe two pieces of pro I thought would have held a fall in the 180 feet. Holds were breaking off left and right, making the climbing extremely scary and unsafe in my opinion. The summit only has one 3/8" spinning bolt for an anchor. You can back it up for your second if you bring a #1 bd nut and #3 tricam. The view from the summit was good though. Bring extra webbing for the rappel, you will probably want to replace what's there since the route doesn't look like it gets climbed often.
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