Dueling Bugles 

FA:  Manuel R, David S New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  2 pitches, 95 feet Views: 175 page views Submitted By: Mike on Oct 17, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Following the awesome second pitch of Dueling Bugl...

Description 

An average first pitch leads to a short but spectacular second pitch. Climb begins on far left side of east face. P1: Take one of several starts (5.7 to 5.10-) to meet at a large boulder, then scramble behind boulder and follow the cracks/chimney to a large ledge with an old bolted belay. P2: follow the obvious dihedral up, then up and right past bolts to the bolted belay for The Blade Of Damascus. The corner is very clean and has only a few holds, but excellent stemming gets you to the top.

Protection 

Protection for first pitch is trad. Gear depends on the exact route chosen, but generally a standard rack up to a #4 camalot with some long runners for rope drag will suffice. Second pitch is all bolts. Both belays are bolted.

Location 

Climb is located on the far left side of the east face of Stewart Peak, about 30' to 50' left of The Blade Of Damascus, depending on which start you choose to do. To descend, rap off of 2nd pitch anchors (directly above The Blade Of Damascus) with a single 60m rope.

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Joe on pitch one, left variation, looking for a wa...