BETA PHOTO: The crag view from the far side of the creek (on a...
Description
A nice crag very close to the road with short but fun sport routes in the 5.7-5.12 range, plus some cool bouldering on the way in to boot. Scattered pine trees give shade when needed but most routes appear to stay in the sun most of the day. Crag walls face west/southwest. Oak Creek runs nearby if you need to cool down on the way out...but I've heard you should not drink the water!
This area is described in the Red Lizard II guide, although I have never personally looked at it; furthermore, it is apparently out of date as many new routes have been added.
Getting There
Take the 89A just north of Sedona into Oak Creek Canyon (if you are coming from the south, that means drive through Sedona until you come to the major stoplight that divides uptown and downtown; turn right toward uptown).
Somewhere within 1 mile from the uptown district, look for a small spa house called Therapy on the Rocks. The parking area is actually across the road and just south of this business. If you find yourself at Slide Rock State Park, you have gone too far.
Cross the highway, angling slightly south of the parking pullout as you do so. You will see a trail drop down when you look over the guard rail. The trail should take you toward the creek to a rock-and-log hop dry crossing (depending on water level; otherwise, be prepared to ford the creek). Continue on the trail a short distance up the hill, meandering through giant sandstone boulders amid trees as you approach the crag.
Special note: be on alert for bee hives in this area during the warm months, especially spring. Please see my beta pic posted here that says "Bee alert!" for a description of an active hive right next to a wall (as of spring 08). This hive was so astonishingly quiet we couldn't even hear it from 30 feet away; please avoid this particular wall and keep your eyes peeled everywhere else as you enjoy your day.
Nice photo. When the water is too high - This area can also be approached via a trail from above.
To get there: Travel south on 179 (after the "Y" at 89a) take first left after bridge onto Schnebly Hill Rd. and follow till pavement ends at Huckaby trailhead. About 15 min hike on this trail will take you to a view of UPtown Sedona, take a left fork at far north end of cliff where small trail descends down a gully and to the base.
Most of these routes were put up by Davis Pastor with 1/2" x 4" Rawl bolts with Fixe bolt hangers & ring anchors.
Thanks & best wishes David whever you are in Colorado ~ Kirra
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