Princess Spire is a tall, slender fin of rock standing between Steamboat Rock and Tisha Spire. The Original Route is exceptionally good.
Getting There
Princess is approached from the Midgley Bridge parking area and sits in behind (north of) Steamboat Rock (see photos). From the parking area, take the Wilson Canyon Trail to the Jim Thompson Trail turnoff, then after about five minutes on the JTT, turn uphill and gain the ridge above that is followed to Steamboat. Traverse across a saddle to reach the east side of Princess Spire.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Princess Spire:
I did this route in the early 80's with Tim Toula. It is a classic but unless somebody has added some bolts to the top the rap is horrifying. We rapped off a tiny bush that was trying to pull out of the crack it was growing from.
yeah, we didn't like the crappy bush and cactus anchor on top either; and after getting the rope stuck and having to prussic back up we decided to leave an anchor at the ledge beyond the crux on the regular route. you can still rap off the bush if you want to, but I'd reccommend downclimbing to the good anchor instead.
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