The second pitch of Oak Creek Spire in Sedona. Ph...
Description
Oak Creek Spire is a classic double-summited Sedona spire with a rabbit-ears profile. This tower tends to have a lot more loose rock than other towers in Sedona, so a little extra caution is advised. The highlight of climbing OCS is the (in)famous "jump move" on the lead of the third pitch, where you have to leap across a gap between the spire's ears to a small stance on the far side. Exciting stuff!
For the North Face-West Crack, start on the North side in a right-facing corner (see pictures).
P1) Climb initial corner crack, then either go straight up, or out onto the face and climb to a steep exit slot and a pair of belay bolts. Move the belay from here up to a ledge just below the next pitch crack.
P2) Climb the tight-hands crack to gain the flared chimney above. If you have big hands, this may feel like 10-. Once in the flare, climb to the big blocky chimney above. You can belay here if you want to break it up a bit, or just continue up the blocky chimney the top of the lower OCS tower. This lead is about 185 feet if you go all the way.
P3) Locate the proper jump, down on a lower ledge across from the other tower. Get some slack and make the leap of faith. Not a good idea to fall. Then climb left, then up, then back right and up a last crack to a (visible from the jump spot)bolted anchor on the wall. The actual summit is another ten feet higher and includes a mailbox. Belay up to and down from here accordingly.
Descent: Rap from the chains down into the bowling alley. Note that 60m ropes will not make it to the next chain anchor at the bottom of the alley. Take care here to belay safely where needed! Then rap from that anchor down to the next bolted anchor above a big ledge. One more long rap will put you at the base again. Watch for loose rock pulling with the ropes all the way down!!
Protection
Standard rack up to #4 Camalot, two ropes, HELMET!!
For the descent, you can rappel off summit and across the jump across. From here, you can go to the north face, overlooking p2 and p3. A double rope rap will get you to the base of p2 and one more rap to the ground. Much cleaner rap than old descent.
1. The first pitch is insecure and scary at 5.8+. The climbing isn't that hard, but it is strange and insecure at times. 2. The rap anchor spoken of above is hidden very well. Look for two white/grey painted hangers that are facing almost directly north. As you top out the third pitch the rap anchor is down and around to the left. 3. This route is awesome because it throws a little bit of everything at you. The second pitch is great because it starts thin hands/hands then progresses to a sweet chimney.
my $.02. my best beta for the route (gear wise) is to take a number 5 camalot. if taken, it is used and every pitch and is great to have. it is also a great way to protect the akward 5.8+ first pitch, which i have personally seen spit of a solid 5.12 climber.
Jeremy Schlick and I added the new rap anchors sometime back in 2001 or 2002. We didn't try to hide them, rather we tried to place them inconspicuously. But they do make things immensely easier as far as getting off the tower is concerned. Right back down to your packs if I remember correctly....
Fantastic tower and home of two of my most favorite epics. Once with Willie C. when we had to bail after I lost my breakfast while leading the 2nd pitch, and once with Felix and Adi Amar when we were benighted and experienced the adventure that is trying to find rap anchors in the pitch black. It was only 11 when we got back to the packs and Adi's grandparents didn't complain too much when they came home to find us raiding their fridge before we went back to Flag, sweet route and good climbing. Glad to know about the new anchors, thanks Seth.
Good route on a great-looking spire. Found the crux opening moves of P2 to be very hard (maybe smaller hands than mine make things smoother here?). Found the new rap bolts - quick and painless descent right down to the packs (thank you!). Left a fixed line to help us get back down & across the chasm - seems like it would be a little tricky to rap across w/o one. Double 70 meter rope will not get you to the ground from these new bolts (not that there's a need for that). Thanks to Greg for the approach map.
Do both the leader and follower need to do the jump across? I am interested in doing the route with my wife, but she's not into jumps. Would jugging the pitch be possible?
I'm picturing Wile E. Coyote here. I wouldn't reccomend jugging the last pitch. A better option would be to top out alone and collect your gear while rapping down, although it would be a shame not to be able to share the summit with your wife. The new rap has a station on the lower summit, so you're not committed to the jump. Maybe once she's there she can summon the courage.
PS. With some aid climging tricks it should be possable to jug the pitch (self lower off a slung boulder..)
I remember doing this route several years ago and getting sketched at the jump across on the last pitch. So I got a running start and jumped too far, smashing hard into the rock wall. It's a wonder that I held on. It definitely looks farther & harder than it really is.
IMHO....Pitch 1 - 5.9 at approx 80'. Pitch 2 - I would break this up into two pitches as previously posted. Belay at the top of the flaring chimney (approx. 100', 5.10 b/c}, then belay at the top of the blocky chimney* (approx. 100'). (*The blocky chimney is more of a crack w/ an offwidth rock-left). Great approach, and great day on sandstone!
Oak Creek Spire
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