This route follows a great line up an amazing feature. The climbing is relatively straight forward and is pretty clean. This is the obvious thin crack system you see when standing at the saddle with Queen Victoria to your back. The route has a little bit of everything from Sedona mud to a splitter finger crack system. Eric Meudt and ? originally tried to reach this finger crack system via the horrible mud chimney directly below and once they hit the top of the chimney, headed way right. Hats off to those guys for that attempt! That chimney looks gross!
P1: Start up the gulley to the left in a chossy crack system. There is a little tree half way up the pitch. Pass a bolt station above the limestone band (rappel) and continue to the top of the small mud tower and a two bolt belay. 5.9 P2: Face climb passed 4 bolts, trending right, to the fun finger crack system that goes through 2 small roofs. Finish at a nice stance with a two bolt belay. You can leave your second rope here. 5.10 P3: Head up and right passed a few bolts to easier ground and end at a 2 bolt belay. 5.7 P4: Continue up easy ground to a couple moves protected by a bolt. Finish on top at a 2 bolt belay. 5.6
Descent: 4 rappels. Rap 1: 90' Rap 2: 90' Rap 3: 150' (pass the mud tower belay to a lower station on top of the limestone band) Rap 4: 110'? to the ground.
Location
Same approach as Queen Victoria. When you reach the saddle, head right. Look for the obvious thin crack system. The route starts to the right up a small gulley. Look for the small tree located halfway up the first pitch... this is how you know you are in the correct crack system.
Protection
Bring doubles up to a #2 camalot and a single #3 and #4 camalot Bring extra fingers. Some climbers recommend bringing nuts. 2x 60m ropes.
climbed most of the first two pitches yesterday. Pitch two now has a #3 camalot i bailed off of just below the roof, early Christmas present for someone. I have lead other 5.10 pitches in Sedona that are much easier... Watch for rope drag over the big roof--from here it appears to be runout about 20 feet to a bolt and the feature you are using, a flake-ear to move past the roof takes gear but isn't solid. Maybe add a bolt here 10 feet after the roof? It may make sense to move your anchor to the top of the big pillar where there are two bolts for pitch two, 30 feet up from the first pitch anchor/rap to lessen rope drag and so you can see the leader. Amazing pitch but maybe should get an R rating.
Oh no!!! Bummer. There is actually good gear after that roof. You just have to peek around the flake to the left. Bomber nuts and small cams. Once you get the bolt there is good gear above to get you to the anchors. Spicy move stepping right to the anchor ledge! Good go at it! Lets get that #3 back to Bennett!
ahh the infamous runout on pitch two. I found myself on this section with no nuts a few years ago and some small cams, however they were the wrong small cams. I had to place them as passive pro and equalized before I tiptoed up to the lonely bolt up there. Way fun, I did end up bailing from the anchor up there due to the impending monsoon on the horizon. Good climbing though!
By Steve Skelton From: Prescott, AZ Feb 19, 2009 rating: 5.10c
On Pitch 2 I remember missing a few bolts. I seem to remember tending right to the crack instead of following the bolt line. It goes! No need for bolts on this one but my second had a great time on the slab. Awesome Climb and if you think its run out, good! We need a little spice.
Well.... You've come to the right place. If you want more than a little spice, go repeat Pointed Dome and be in awe of what was being done in the '50s in god only knows what kinda shoe. The second wasn't until the late '70s by Ross Hardwick and after that, no one else wanted to brave the route.
I think I've heard of some of the "newer" hardmen repeating it, but don't know for sure.
Or do the original route on Moose's Butte and for added spice, don't clip the bolt added on the 3rd ascent on the third pitch.
By Steve Skelton From: Prescott, AZ Mar 12, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Just did Skyline again. I didn't say anything and my partner skipped the 4th bolt too, traversing in after the third. We like the first three bolts so I’ll retrieve my last comment about this route not needing any bolts. Pitches three and four can be run together in a rope stretching sprint if you use really long slings! I have your cam Bennett. If you want it it's in Prescott, but I need a number three... Thanks for the beta Paul, I’ve done Moose’s Butte and it is spicy, even with that bolt! Technicolor is a bit headier though, I think. Pointed Dome can go, and should soon. You want to lead it?
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