BETA PHOTO: the white scar is where Miami once was. the new ro...
Description
Spout Route: great new route! South side 12bolt sport pitch almost has a crux for every bolt (5.10-) Pitch 2 is a beautiful splitter corner to the West notch(5.9). from there the route wanders across ledges on the North face to the Eastern notch, from the E notch clip a bolt and traverse ledges back to the west end (5.7). final pitch has crazy exposure as you climb past 5 or 6 bolts traversing under the west roof to the summit on the south side(5.10+). rap off with one 60m.
Location
100ft left of where Miami once was (this giant megaton flake fell off the winter of 06-07)
I haven't done the new finish to this route, but it looks wild. Way better than the Cinco de Mayo variation, which is good for the first 15 ft and then turns silly as you struggle with a V3 boulder problem to get back onto the original Toula route. John and Chris's variation does the good part of the Cinco de Mayo variation, and then stays independent of the original route by stepping out onto the overhanging south face for some major exposure. The star system is pretty subjective, but Chris and John's route deserves at least 2 more stars than the Cinco de Mayo variation. Not having done it, I'd guess that I would rate this route 3 or 4 stars. They also added 2 pitches to the ground, so that the tower now goes free at 5.10+ (before you had to aid the bolt ladder or traverse the entire formation to get to the notch). The second pitch is very nice. It would be nice if the third pitch would go straight up, but that would make it a lot harder.
The Teapot
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