Wild Wild West 

I haven't done the new finish to this route, but it looks wild. Way better than the Cinco de Mayo variation, which is good for the first 15 ft and then turns silly as you struggle with a V3 boulder problem to get back onto the original Toula route. John and Chris's variation does the good part of the Cinco de Mayo variation, and then stays independent of the original route by stepping out onto the overhanging south face for some major exposure. The star system is pretty subjective, but Chris and John's route deserves at least 2 more stars than the Cinco de Mayo variation. Not having done it, I'd guess that I would rate this route 3 or 4 stars. They also added 2 pitches to the ground, so that the tower now goes free at 5.10+ (before you had to aid the bolt ladder or traverse the entire formation to get to the notch). The second pitch is very nice. It would be nice if the third pitch would go straight up, but that would make it a lot harder.

climbed this a month ago and found it a tad harder than 10+ on the last pitch... felt more like solid 11 on the traverse under the spout but protected pretty well by bomber bolts... some brittle rock in a lot of spots too (pitch one, traversing pitches)... if you have your game-head on though it is a great--a true adventure! but certainly a spicy route...

The Doctor and I did this climb a few weeks ago, and thought it was stellar! The first pitch has some looseness, but some very memorable climbing overall! We both thought it was 5.11-.

Here's the Trip Report:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=73333>>>>>

P1: so-so
P2: Superb!
P3: meh... "lets go belay over there"
P4: decent
P5: another great pitch!

Nice route & great summit. The last 30' definitely lives up to the name.

Great route! The first 2 pitches were exciting, the crack was excellent, the traverse was so so and not inspiring but the last pitch... WOW. What an amazing, exposed pitch. I will say that it think the rating was a little sand bagged on that pitch, it is definitely harder than 5.10. I am not sure if it is scarier to lead or to follow. I had to French Free on one bolt under the roof... Has anyone actually got it clean?

Mountainems, I am glad you liked the route! Ya the last pitch is crazy... When we did it, we called it 5.10... I thought that if it was on the ground, it would be about a V0 boulder problem... But 300' in the air, things are a little different! I will agree that it is not 5.10 after many people have done it... probably in the 5.11- range? It seems like people either send it no problem or grab a draw and/or all of them! I feel it has more to do with your head rather than strength. Anyway, good job I am psyched it is getting climbed!

mountainems: Yes, lots of people have gotten it clean. And everyone is entitled to their opinion, but 5.11+? In Sedona??? IMHO this route is much easier than, say, Castles In The Sand or The Golden Spike.

Chris: Thanks for a great route. Many people are climbing it; the word has definitely gotten out! I agree that is more of a head crux than a physically hard crux. When I first looked at that section, I actually yelled out: "You gotta be kidding me!" However, when you do the moves it isn't nearly as hard as it looks. Great fun.

Did this route with Dan Foster a few years back. I enjoyed the whole experience and remember that if you get 'wrong handed' on the last pitch you could be screwed. I think that is the reason for major differences in the grade. Choose your sequence wisely.