BETA PHOTO: Firecat as seen from the notch next to the Bobbleh...
Description
A route that will get better over time. I had to clean a bunch o rock to clean the line. The bad thing, the route ends 1 pitch from the top. The summit bolt ladder has been chopped as of Oct 2009. P1) Climb the center chimney- now cleaned this should be 5.7/5.8. As you near the end, continue straight up or cut right into low angle squeeze. 2 bolt belay, 80' P2) Make dicey moves up a hollow flake to a bolt, then use hand size piece in another hollow flake then top step to ledge. Continue up finger and hand crack to a ow bulge then climb past a loose section to a good ledge. 1 belay bolt, C1+ or might go free for bold leader. 75' P3) step up to horizontal and place a piece in a hole, traverse right to a low angle section with a giant loose block. Place gear as needed to not disturb the block, climb up left slanting ramp (5.6 R+) to belay. 60'. Belay is funkness fixed stopper and two tri cams (much better than the 1/2 spool of tat!) P4) to right and up scree covered ledge up and left to base of bolt ladder. The first 5 bolts are missing.
Location
Northwest notch of the tower. The route climbs up to the ledge w/ the "Bobblehead", then up the face on the main tower. Raps, double from top of 3rd to notch, single line to base.
Protection
Double set smallest cams to #3 Camalot, plus 1 ea #4, #5, #6 or expect C.2 conditions.
I started up the left chimney and had to tension traverse off a bolt to center chimney after encountering really bad rock. It goes, but now the loose stuff is clear in the center var.
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