Please take care on the approach not to stray into the resort.
Description
A decent climb with outstanding scenery and a clever name. The middle of the climb is a varied slot that looks remarkably like a certain part of the female anatomy. Hs a wilderness climb feel to it despite being in view of a golf course.
Start in the crack system on the right side of the south face, below the obvious slot.
P1: Climb dirty, chossy crack in a right facing corner to stacked chockstones and better rock. Continue up the nice crack to an obvious belay with 2 bolts below a chimney. 5.10-
P2: A shorter pitch. Squeeze up the chimney, then out (don't get stuck) to some nice stem moves up to a belay in an alcove. Belay off chockstones. 5.9
P3: Continue up the crack system using chimney, offwidth, and face moves. Nice huecos on the left make this easier than it appears, and occasional pro can be found in the chimney. After topping out on the lower summit, scramble up to the higher summit and belay off small to medium cams.
The summit has a cool view of a secluded cliff dwelling to the north.
The rappel anchors are located on the back (north) side of the lower summit. Make 2 single rope (60m) raps or one double rope rap to the ground, then scramble down & back around to the start.
Location
From the parking area you can walk up the road a short ways and see the tower through the trees.
From the parking area, cross the wash and follow the Long Canyon Trail for a mile or two, then follow a faint trail off to the right that scrambles up and leads just west of the tower.
Protection
A standard Sedona rack, including a #4 & #5 Camalot. A second #4 would come in handy if you want to drag it up.
A quick note on the approach since I'd hate to see someone make the mistake I did the first time. When the Longs Canyon trail looks like it's about as close as you're going to get to the tower, you'll see a wash that goes up the right side of the tower. Do NOT go up this wash. Instead stay on the ridgeline to the left, where you'll find a faint trail that goes to the ruins. This trail will take you all the way to the tower with no bushwacking.
When I first did this the first belay wasn't bolted, and building a belay there was quite an engineering feat. Overall I really liked this climb, more for the atmosphere and the tower than for the climbing itself.
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