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Mars Attacks 

5.8

   

FA: John Burcham and John Mattson, March 2000
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 4 pitches, Grade II
Season: Anytime its sunny
Views: 1,733 page views

Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on Feb 1, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Route beta for Mars Attacks. Belay and/or rappel ...


Description 

Located on Dry Creek Road in Sedona, Mars Attacks is a great and varied 5.8.
Pitch One: Bolted slab climbing certain to be thought provoking, 3 or 4 bolts to a bolted anchor
Pitch Two: Classic bolted limestone Traverse. Follow the line of bolts along the limestone band to a nice belay ledge at the base of the money crack.
Pitch Three: Great varied crack climbing to a bit of an offwidth and another bolted belay.
Pitch Four: Another slabby pitch with two or three bolts, watch for rope drag

Rappel: Move to the right and rap long face to hanging belay over "Big Corner" Another rap should put you on the ground.


Protection 

Standard Rack up to #4 and about 10 Draws



Add Photo Photos of Mars Attacks
Me going up the crack on pitch three. Fun pitch for my intro to crack climbing.

Me going up the crack on pitch three. Fun pitch fo...

Me leading pitch 1 with Marcy and Casey ahead of me getting ready to start the traverse pitch 2.

Me leading pitch 1 with Marcy and Casey ahead of m...

Jodie on the traverse pitch 2. She flew through this amazingly exposed pitch.

Jodie on the traverse pitch 2. She flew through th...

Another shot of Jodie on the traverse pitch 2.

Another shot of Jodie on the traverse pitch 2.

Looking down at Natalie coming up the first pitch.

Looking down at Natalie coming up the first pitch.

Casey chillin at the top of pitch 4

Casey chillin at the top of pitch 4

MI: 2 shot--according to my non-climbing friends. =)  Photo by Joe Lee, April 2007

MI: 2 shot--according to my non-climbing friends. ...

Rapping off Mars.  Big Corner 10d the crack you see to the right.<br />

BETA PHOTO: Rapping off Mars. Big Corner 10d the crack you se...

Ryan smearing through the crux of pitch one. March, 2008

Ryan smearing through the crux of pitch one. March...

The obligatory pitch two shot. Ryan cruises, Tavis snaps the picture. March 2008

The obligatory pitch two shot. Ryan cruises, Tavis...


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By Bill Wright
Feb 8, 2006
rating: 5.9-

This route felt hard and exciting for 5.8. The first pitch looks easy, but there is a difficult slab move on this pitch. The next pitch, the traverse seemed to be the crux and it is a bit heady and a bit pumpy, so very, very cool. Great photo potential here. I think the route feels more like a 5.9 on the first two pitches. The 3rd pitch is a super cool, very unique and fun crack/chimney pitch.

By Clayton Laramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2006

Mars Attacks is a great climb! From where you park your car, walk back to the road and then head north for about 350 yards to a small wash on your right. Take this wash to the path that will get you past the first little cliff to the shelf. You will approach the climb from the West.

The first pitch is harder than 5.8. I would say 10 slab easily. I heard that a key foot nub wore off from repeated use. The second pitch is a classic limestone band traverse around the prow. Third pitch is a full rope with wide gear placements. Not to worry, there are plentiful huge jugs that make this pitch a cruise. The fourth pitch is a crack to slab combination. Make sure you traverse right to the other set of anchors for your rappel!!

This rap will put you right over Big Corner, which is another great climb [10c/d corner]!!!

By Sean Thomes
From: Fairfield, CT
Oct 23, 2006

I'm not going to get into the technical aspects of this route. Its a must do if your out in Sedona. The third pitch had to be my all time favorite. It was a great chance to practice that crack climbing that I've been avoiding. I can't say enough good things about this climb.

By Seth Dyer
Dec 14, 2006

FA John Burcham AND John Mattson.

By mattso
From: grand canyon, AZ
Feb 4, 2007
rating: 5.8+

Mars was a great route all around. It contains a wide variety of climbing disciplines. The first slab was nerve racking to a airy traverse. The 3rd pitch was aesthetically beautiful as well as one of my favorite cracks. Bomber hand jams, to fist to chimney, stellar at the least. If you plan on rapping the route, bring two ropes. You can rap big corner with one rope no problem. The anchors for the second rap are at the very end of a 60 meter rope. They are hidden below a bulge and you will not see them until almost on top of them. A true 100 Ft. rap.

By Spahle
From: Mesa, Arizona
May 7, 2007
rating: 5.8 PG13

Best climb I've ever done. This route has everything. Slab, traverse, crack and off width. Thanks to Jodie and the rest of the crew for taking my girlfriend and I on this amazing climb.

By Eyes Of Green
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 9, 2007

If you are good at slab (check) and your head is on for exposure (check), this climb is pretty much cake. Gear is bomber on cracks and sandstone provides great friction. I recommend.

By climnron
Sep 13, 2007

I have done this route several times over the last 3-4 years and it doesn't seem any harder than 5.7 or 5.8. If you aren't good at slab technique the 1st pitch will feel harder, but that is because of your skill, not because the climb is difficult. It is a great route.
Ronnie

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Oct 24, 2007

I rope soloed this in early Oct. I'd like to comment on the first pitch rating. After reading the varied opinions on the rating of pitch 1 I paid close attention to the difficulties and I climbed it twice(because I was soloing). I intentionally climbed 2 different "lines" at the crux section. I found one of them to be 5.9 and one to be 5.10-. The lines I took were both on par with the bolt location's and wear to the rock indicating that others had climbed there. Is there an easier path farther from the bolts? Possibly...but the "line" that is bolted is in the 5.9/5.10- range. It is very well protected however!
I've put my time in climbing hard slabs in a wide variety of local's and that's my 2 cents.

Also this is a very good route. The 2nd and 3rd pitch's are very classic!

By Aimee Rose
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 6, 2008
rating: 5.9

Great route! I felt like the 3rd pitch was the crux though. Pulling through the little bulge with only the offwidth crack and no holds was quite exciting for me. Then I ran out of gear and had to run it out to the anchors from there- don't place all your big pieces before the bulge!

I felt the first pitch was about 5.9 (Sedona 5.8), no harder, but could seem harder if there was no chalk.