possible to lead the initial grunge 5.8pitch form the ground but preferred to rap in from Mars Attacks. Beautiful dihedral with finger locks and liebacking, crux is the endurance + a bit harder near the top, have fun!
Location
located east of Mars Attacks (along rap from MA) and just right of Fear of a Red Planet
Protection
easily top roped while descending Mars Attacks, otherwise a triple set of tcu's should get you up.
This was a fantastic climb that I recommend doing after climbing Mars Attacks. Less than vert corner that will be in the shade in the afternoon, is still tough and cruxes at the top. Various crack widths and some crimps on the face make this corner easier than your pure crack outing. The dirty first pitch didn't look worth doing at all.
top roped this yesterday with two 70 meter ropes passing the knot for 180 foot pitch. awesome and varied... first pitch a bit loose and a bit run 5.9 if it were lead. Second would be sweet to lead and would protect well, has a bolt at the wide crux which is nice for directional when tr-ing. bolt anchors at about 120 feet from the ground for this pitch. all sizes in about 60 feet of climbing for pitch 2, bigger than fist to tips...
some big suspect blocks in a couple of spots to try to avoid on pitch one, and one i recall one just before the upper crux on pitch 2... full sun in the afternoon.
the rap anchors at the top of Big Corner are different than the rap for Mars Attacks, 30 feet and diagnally down to climbers left. pulling ropes might be hard if you rap to Big Corner anchor first...
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