Jake Dayley on MAJAK Line FA making the route his....
Description
The start is face to a thin crack that widens to perfect hands, the rock is harder than lots of other soft sedona routes. Great hands for a long ways then a short easy OW section gets you to the works. A 10' roof guards the exit but it's no more than 10+ jams with a bomber lock after the roof. Steep lieback on the limestone band to exit right and you're done.
Location
From Soldier Pass trailhead walk easterly on trail to drainage wandering north to the base of Tower of Bootle and Japhead. Get into the drainage south of the Tower and approach from the west on ledges to just south of tower. Climb starts on east face with anchor bolts.
Protection
one bolt, (2) black aliens, (1)blue, red camalot, (5) #2 camalots, (2) #3 camalot, sm to med nuts (hexes optional, I like em). Anchor at start and rap off chains with 70m or double ropes.
By markguycan From: flagstaff, az Nov 16, 2007 rating: 5.11a PG13
just did it w/ 5 #2 camalots and ended up with one still on the rack at the summit, so I'd recommend only taking 4 #2's, 1 #3, & 1 #4 (you could place a #5 if you wanted to). I concur w/ the beta on the little gear + small nuts, and yeah hexes would be useful. Super cool climbing on crappy rock; I'd recommend it to anyone who has a taste for choss! Nothing technically that difficult but the sustained climbing warrants 11a. Exciting from start to finish!
Jap Head
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