Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride 

Great climb at a moderate grade. Minimal loose rock for a 'desert tower' climb. Combine to 2 pitches total to enjoy even more without 'short' pitches, although that adds sustanance to the 'first pitch', and may make the climb feel more like 10a.

There are anchors on the summit, so look around for them. I was goofy enough to belay off of some marginal gear right next to the big bomer bolts! Silly me.

Fun route that isn't too tough. Rap from anchors at the top and escape off the back. Walk back around to your gear.

First two pitches are stiff for the grade, but very cool.

The fourth pitch is challenging as well. The pitch wanders a bit, the mantle move is above a ledge, left of the bolt, and my belayer couldn't see me at all. So, it seemed like a good chance of hitting the ledge below if you blew the move.

At the summit, the bolts are on the opposite side of the formation from where you top out.

What a climb! The first two pitches were quite stout for the grade but well worth it. My favorite part was by far the third "airy traverse" pitch.. it puts the Mace's traverse to shame!

Fun route with pretty solid rock. The pitches are all short, so the climbing goes really fast. The crux is getting into the crack on P2 -- definitely 5.9+, maybe even 5.10.

IMPORTANT BETA: On June 15, 2008 a rap station was added on a ledge about 98 feet from the summit, so the route can be rapped with one 60m rope.

"On June 15, 2008 a rap station was added on a ledge about 98 feet from the summit, so the route can be rapped with one 60m rope"

Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem.

"Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem. "

Yeah, I agree. I don't recall the rap being an issue? One shot with 2 ropes & you're on the ground (my photo above).

Is it because folks don't like to carry a 2nd rope?

I'm curious to see if these do gooders are as conscientious at replacing worn sport area anchors as adding superfluous stations to classic Sedona towers.

Gotta love it.

I distinctly recall the rap being fun and pretty. Darn shame someone would F with it.

Actual first ascent of the tower was Herb North's lead. Followed by Peter Nobels y moi. Larry does deserve credit for the first ascent in that he did the first pitch, found the climb, etc.... But then let it sit for awhile (6 months.)

A group of us where in the area (same day as Tower of Boodle first ascent I believe) when this was pointed out to Herb. He was actually going to come back down after the crux when he found out he was "stealing" Larry's climb, but I convinced him to finish it off.

I agree with Greg. There's no way the first pitch is any harder than 5.9. It's hard to miss the huge jugs (at every tricky part), even at night. If it's feeling harder than 5.9, you're probably overlooking a big hold.

Did the route yesterday. The new rap station is well placed and in an excellent location on a huge ledge and does not remove the "free hanging rappel" aspect. Used no stoppers and a double rack with single #3.

Watched out for the bees. On 09/01/2009, we were attacked by bees after we rappelled down from the top on our way to retrieve our packs at the start of the climb. The bees hive was located appx 50 yards down from the base of the rappel, along the edge of the rock face. There is an alternative path if you head out from the spire a bit and then down and around to the base of the climb. Awesome climb.

I had a similar experience with the bees years ago, but have been back and not been bothered. Good to know that they are still around. Try linking p1 and p2 for an awesome 190 foot enduro pitch. Awesome summit

Was just there 10/11 or so... not a bee in sight and I was looking.