Cool pitch. It may not be hard but it will get yo...
Description
Streaker Spire is a fun mostly easy spire for Sedona and a really cool summit view for your trouble. Start from pine tree as described below. For some reason, I remember the route as three pitches, but think the safest way to do it is as described here:
P1) Traverse the limestone band, sometimes up, sometimes below (whatever's easiest!) to get out to a nice flat bivy-style ledge on right end of the north face. There used to be one bolt here and a small tree.
P2) Continue out on the limestone band, passing a last ledge with a tree, then go around the corner, tiptoeing out along the ledges to reach a wide crack that heads up. Belay.
P3) Climb the wide crack to reach a fat slot corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and belay.
P4) Climb cracks up the north face towards an obvious slot that is up and left that leads to the top. Getting into this slot is the crux of the route and is mostly just awkward. Chimney to the top and you're home. Fixed anchor on top.
Location
The route starts on the back left corner (northeast) of the spire and traverses along ledges on the north side at it's start. You have to scramble (or belay if you need to) up onto the limestone band where there's a prominent pine tree. Belay off the tree for the pitch one traverse.
Descent via two rappels down the north face landing roughly where you started. Seems like you need two ropes? Been a long time...maybe someone can confirm or deny...
Protection
Standard desert rack, nuts or tricams, plus medium to large cams.
Pitch one and two as described can easily be combine into one pitch. Belay below the wide slot which leads into the large left facing corner system. There is one bolt here and a crack that will take 2" to 4" gear.
The descent can be accomplished with one 60m rope. The first rappel is about 100' to a large ledge. Scramble from here to the second rappel anchor. A second 100' rappel puts you in the middle of the 4th class approach pitch.
Does anyone have beta on the direct start to this route?
The line of the direct start is visible in the topo photo/drawing. Note the lower ledge system that heads out right from way below the start of the Original Route, and follows the face/rt facing corner to the belay at the base of the wide bit of the O Rt. (where it says 5.6 on the topo)
Head out right on a sandstone ledge system for 60+ feet (it's been a while, sorry about the foggy memory). It's mostly 4th class with a bit of exposed low 5th to a bolted belay on a big ledge.
Climb up corner system and out right on the face, passing 1 (2?) bolts to a sweet hand crack behind a monster flake to another (optional?) bolted belay.
Continue up finger crack to limestone overhangs and belay at the wide crack belay of O Rt.
I climbed this route without bolts, by mistake, back in 2000. After finding several pieces of gear that O Rt climbers had dropped, we called it the Booty Chute variation when we went back to bolt it. It offers really fun climbing in the 5.7-8 grade.
I want to rave about every route I do but I can't really recommend this route. If you like summits, want to bulk up your oeuvre, or climb something new, definitely tick this one off. The first pitch is kind of cool. Fourth class to a ledge with a decrepit tree and set up a belay before starting. Get out your camera too. The rest of the climb has some strenuous and hard wide climbing. If you do this route, I would start with the traditional first traversing pitch. It's neat. As for the last two pitches, I would do them separately so you can see the leader on the third pitch.
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