For those looking for a bit more at the end of their day on the Mace. It is possible to toprope the crack below the eyebolts on the second rappel (the one reaching the ground). It has been led, but that seems less-than-ideal as it has lots of loose rock and fragile flake. However, the moves themselves are fun: the crux is thought-provoking seam/stem. Apparently there is a second pitch to the top of the tower. Any info?
Location
Last rappel as you descend the Original Route.
Protection
Toprope from huge eyebolts (don't belay through the bolts - use slings & your own carabiners!)
Hello all - Actually Scott Baxter, Ross Hardwick and myself did the first lead ascents,all free climbed,of both piches of what we called the "Rappel Route" on The Mace back in the mid 70's. The route pretty much went directly up where you rappel down. If memory serves me correctlty we rated the route 10+.
Now that you ring my memory, I believe I have mixed up Wind Sand and Stars which is the FFA of Tim and Bobbi I am thinking about. It's the thin stuff to the left of the rap route.
looks fun but hard, flaring thin finger. Anyone know what the route to climbers left of the rap route is with all the chopped bolts? looks like someone went bolt crazy, and there are bolt holes like a foot above the ground...poor ethics but curious what it is if anyone has the beta?
Look at the photos one level up (Cathedral Rock)... the route is what the guy who posted is calling the Thompson Ladder. According to the Toula guide, I think it was freeclimbed in the 80's by Tim Coats, Larry Coats, and Bobbi Bensman and called Wind, Sand and Stars (5.11).
The Rappel Route is an awesome climb and deserves more stars. Wind Sand and Stars was an 5.10 A3 route put up by Larry Bruce and Molly Higgins in the early 70's. It climbed the crack system to the left of the Rappel route for 2 aid pitches to the fissure Higgins, a 5.10 off width that Molly lead. My brother, Bobbi Bensman and I free climbed the first pitch with no bolts for a scary 5.11 pitch, then traversed into the notch and climbed a crack on the main tower opposite the 2nd pitch of the Rappel route for another scary 5.11 pitch. Years later some knuckle head with a hilti decided to put in a bolt ladder. Other obscure and never repeated routes on the Mace are the Webster/Becker route, which basically climbed a crumbly direct start to the crux pitch on the original route and the Carson Memorial, named after Bruce Carson who tried to solo it in the early 70's and later died on Gasherbrum. It starts at the notch, traverses the limestone band on the west side and then climbs the crack on the opposite side of the crux pitch of the original route. It's probably around 5.10+ and a bit scary.
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