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South Mesa
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Vortex in a Can 

Vortex in a Can 

5.10+

   

FA: Chris Tatum and John Burcham
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches
Season: fall to spring
Views: 490 page views

Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Apr 6, 2006


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Description 

P1: Clip a couple bolts then head left into a layback flake. Climb this until it seems like it's going to disappear, then head right over a small roof, where you will find another bolt.

P2: Move over easy slab with bolts.

P3: The crux. Move left from the belay up a steep arete into a corner. Move right out of the corner over steep ground to clip a couple bolts. Then head right again and up. Finish back to the left over steep jugs to a chain anchor.


Location 

Hike up to Cathedral Rock to the notch where you can see an unusual volcanic plug (some say this is the vortex). Follow the trail over the notch and keeping to the left side of the rock. Head in between two sandstone formations and follow the rock heading south. Come around the formation to head to the west and start looking for bolts on the south-facing face.


Protection 

Chain or bolted anchors at the top of every pitch. Bolts and gear for the rack. Bring small TCUs or Aliens for the first pitch and up to a #3 Camalot for the rest.



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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 25, 2006

Great route. A few things that might be useful:

1. Bring at least 2 blue Aliens for the crux pitch. I probably would have placed 3 or 4 if I'd had 'em.

2. You can get down with 1 60m rope. From the top of P2 a 60m rope barely gets you down with stretch.

3. The top of South Mesa is a really cool spot to be. It's worth topping out. You can solo the topout pitch at about 5.5 or stay roped up. There is an anchor at the top.