Original Route 

I wouldn't let the lack of a big bro stop you from doing the route. The runout on P2 isn't all that bad and there is a small cam you can place near the last bit. The BB will make you more comfortable but it really isn't manditory. But you really do want that #4 camalot at the crux.

The summit register lives inside the fireplug at the top - you can unscrew the top.

This is such a classic climb.

A tricky start to the second pitch and an airy traverse to start the third get you ready for the crux fourth pitch. A fun lead, this pitch makes you think about how to clip that bolt and contort your body to make it through the crux.

I had a #5 Camalot but a #4 would work just fine (note, with C4s, you probably do want the #5).

I almost forgot the step across pitch. That was a cool way to end a climb. I would never jump back across after Coyote Tower. My heels are worth way more than a fun jump.

An excellent route. I never get tired of this climb. It's going to get a lot harder when that flake on the 5th pitch eventually comes off.

third time on the mace today. currently there is no register, if someone wants to bring up a notebook and a couple pencils.

we brought a single set of green alien to new #5 camalot, and an extra 1 and 2 to back up the beefy belay bolts. i was pretty happy with the rack, and might even add a couple finger size cams next time.

the top of pitch two is spicy without a big piece. i would venture to guess the new BD 6 would do OK. its a little bigger than the old 5. personally, i wuss out and climb the runout (but easier?) face left of the OW there.

What a great route and summit! The off width on the second pitch doesn't feel too exposed but the crux moves on the 4th pitch do! That bolt is in the right place for sure. A few comments:

1.) The eye bolts on the belay are fatties. If you plan to clip in with locking biners, take ovals or some other shape with a large gate clearance. My small pear-shaped lockers wouldn't go around them but thankfully I had a couple of oval lockers with me too.

2.) With double 60m ropes you can rap directly down off the main summit tube to the big ledge and eye bolts in the notch between the two spires no problem. Everything we had read suggested rapping or jumping down to the lower summit and then rapping down to the notch. That's not necessary. (Although the jump across would be fun!)

3.) We carried a BD 5 and 6 camalots and I placed them in the OW at the top of pitch 2 but ended up more on the face to the left anyway. If I did this again I wouldn't bother with the 6 but would likely take the 5 again. I placed the BD 4 camalot near the crux on P4 before clipping the bolt. It was nice to have the assurance of the big cam backing up the bolt.

Good point, Greg! I didn't think of that issue and was wondering why no one had mentioned rapping from the summit proper. Your two cents are much appreciated. Next time it's the jump-across to rappel for me.

Geoff Slater and I did the Mace, using this page. There were a couple of things that would have helped.

First, the guano is not on the belay ledge mentioned. The only guano we found covers the walls of the crux offwidth. The associated bird perch has attracted some dangerous parasites. While on the crux, I had to squish a cone-nosed kissing bug that was after me. CNKB are like giant, fast-moving, disease-carrying, ticks. They look like oversized boxelder bugs but move faster :(

Second, it is possible to do this route with just a rope, a rack, and the shirt on your back. Just be sure the rope is a 70 meter for the first rappel off the sub-summit into the notch between the sub and true summits :)

Finaly, the rating is not Yosemite Decimal System. The hardest move, protected by the bolt, felt like 5.10+. In my opinion the Mace's crux is much harder than either the Kor-Ingalls (5.9-) or North Chimney (5.8+) on Castleton Tower.

Was the FA done free? If so then this route may be part of the reason Arizona ratings have their long-standing sandbag reputation.

Here is my hypothesis. The first offical five nine was done in 1952. When the Mace was climbed in 1957 there was no 5.10 rating, even though all three members of the FA could climb that well then. The idea to come up with the mathematically incorrect grade of 5.10 was still in the future. The first official five ten was Crack of Doom in Yosemite, Pratt and Hemple, 1961. Rearick, Kamps, and Herbert were among the best climbers in the world back in 1957. The YDS didn't catch up until later. Some Arizona rating still haven't.

Ken: There is no way The Mace is 5.10+ unless maybe it was located in Jack's Canyon.

Greg: That is a really cool topo. Any others like that?

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/mace/index1.>>>>>

Greg and Mike, I agree the Mace is no Twilight Zone. For those familiar with the Denver area, it seemed a bit harder than the Grand Giraffe (and fully worth the drive).

I added a link for the topo we used from Climbing's website.
Pitches two and three also get the 5.9 rating, yet felt a full number grade easier than the crux. I shouldn't have been so surprised because offwidths are always the hardest techinque for me. Next time I'm bringing the big cams as Greg advised, instead of hexes.