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The Queen Scepter
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King of Fools 
Queen Scepter 
Whistling Idiot 

Queen Scepter 

5.12a

   

FA: Jim Steagall, Ken Mills, & Eric Hanson
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 110 feet
Views: 75 page views

Submitted By: Mike on Dec 1, 2008


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Description 

A nice line up the west face through several roofs & bulges. Start up easier climbing to the first (crux) roof. A couple hard moves gets you to jugs, which continue to the top.

Although the technical crux is short, the overhanging nature of the climb makes for a pumpy route all the way to the top.


Location 

Climb is located on the west face of Queen Scepter. There are 2 bolted lines on the west face; Queen Scepter is the right (south) one.


Protection 

Many bolts (maybe 15?) get you to a bolted anchor. While this route is generally very well protected, the first bolt is a bit high, albeit on easier climbing. An intermittent crack near the bottom lets one tame the initial runout with a medium-ish nut.