BETA PHOTO: Centipede Corner on the left. Frosted Snakes on th...
Description
Centipede corner is the beautiful, right-leaning crack and corner system on the west face of the Lunchbox. It is among the best routes in LDE. It is protected entirely by gear (except, of course, for the rap anchors.)
This climb has multiple cruxes, the first of which is protected by small gear and is near the start of the climb. The gear is solid but spaced out just enough to keep your attention.
A 60m rope is just long enough to rap the route with rope stretch. Be careful and make sure your rope is the whole way down. For those who come up a bit short, stop at the anchors for Hold the Jam and do a second rappel to the ground.
Location
See overview photo.
Protection
Standard rack except triples of #2 and #3 Camalot & doubles of #1 and #4 Camalot.
Definitely my favorite route at LDE (at the moment; things can change)
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AX Nov 8, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Sweet and well protected indeed! Some loose stuff down low, pulled off now, but the cruxy part is terrific, truly. Still prefer Throat choker b/c of the length, diversity and the views from top, but this is second so far...awesome find you both, thanks!