This climb has tricky but solid gear. Like most LDE climbs, it was established ground-up; one bolt was drilled from a hook placement during this ascent.
Later, we had a trusted friend check out Advanced Geir before posting it up. Following his recommendation, two more bolts were added to back off the commitment level a bit. Even with its moderate grade and the addition of these bolts, it's still a climb for a seasoned trad climber.
Look for a bolt about 10’ off the ground in the middle of the face just left of where the hand line protecting the approach ends.
1) Stem the start of the climb to reach the first bolt. Continue straight up the face making tricky gear placements. Clip a second bolt & pull through the crux. For “extra credit” find the good gear nearby the third bolt. Move up to the comfortable ledge. (5.9, 90').
2) Move left to a crack with a small bulge. Pull the bulge (5.9) and move a few feet right to a second crack that forms a ramp. Follow the ramp up and step right to the summit. (5.9, 70')
Descent: From the anchors on top of pitch 2, locate the rappel anchor and rap 120' down the west face of the formation to a notch. Scramble down 40' to the hand line at the bottom of Pigtails and Powerdrills.
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