BETA PHOTO: Marcy on the FA of Accelerated Climbology
Description
Great, fun climbing on a mixture of face and crack on the north side of the formation. Climb 30’ up a corner / crack system on the right side of the face. Traverse a few feet left to 5 bolts heading up the face 60’ to a second crack system. Follow the cracks system until it widens to a chimney. Place some gear and pull the harrowing exposed bulge on your right to the top.
Descent: Two single line rappels. First rap - 60 feet to the chimney climbers left of the route. Second rap - 100 feet to start of route.
I love this climb. The rappel is annoying though, with a high probability for rope clusterfks. I used single set of cams to 2" + nuts and a few hexes. The first time I climbed this I underestimated the length and ran out of draws near the top.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Nov 16, 2009 rating: 5.9
Marcy and I will be changing the rappel shortly - actually we already went to do it, but someone forgot the batteries for the drill...
The new rappel will be 2 single line raps and will return you nicely to the base of the route instead of the current single double rope rap that takes you between the Climbology tower and the tower to the West.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Nov 23, 2009 rating: 5.9
I cannot confirm the identity of the person who forgot the batteries. Doing so would be too embarrassing. :)
The new rappel anchors have been added! Two single line raps put you back at your packs.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Nov 25, 2009 rating: 5.9
This is one of my favorite routes in LDE. With the addition of the new rappel anchors, the route can now be done with one 60 meter rope. The climb has interesting moves and goes on and on - and the bulge at the end of the climb delivers a great kick in the butt. The summit is terrific. Don't miss this one.
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