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Lower Devil's Canyon
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Hidden Splendor 

5.9

   

FA: Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters, Marty Karabin
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 85 feet
Views: 78 page views

Submitted By: Alex Hardt on Nov 12, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: View looking south down Devils Canyon with the sto...


Description 

The climb is consistent the entire way up. There are the options for some mantel moves, crimping and cam placement in horizontal cracks between bolts.

Although Hidden Splendor is listed as a 5.8 in Karabin's Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon, I think that some (lots?) of holds have broken off - at least it looks that way and compared to other 5.8 climbs in the area like Three Amigos and Smokin' The Toad, this climb seemed a lot harder.

It's a great hidden location in Lower Devils with an interesting approach.


Location 

The approach to this climb is part of the fun. This climb is tucked into a gully just north of the Glitter Box area. Go down to the bottom of the Glitter Box (rap down east of Three Amigos or walk around) and follow the trail that heads north along the base of the crag. Just north around the Glitter Box area is a long face climb called Damsels in Distress (5.10b/c). From the base of Damsels in Distress, continue north hiking up the hill until you find a small ledge and small stove-pipe pinnacle. Go south on the ledge toward the pinnacle and scramble up a chimney on the right for about 30 or 40 feet. You will climb out of the chimney into a small open area. From here, squeeeeeze through a narrow slit in the south wall and you will pop out into a scree gully. Hidden Splendor is the north face climb directly in front of you with a tree at the base. There is another bolted climb to the far right (west) in the gully called Changes in Attitude (5.10b) which is to the right of a chimney.


Protection 

8 bolt face to a 2 shut rappel. Small cams can be used in horizontal cracks between bolts as needed.